Reasons for Loss of Liquid in Pressure Canning

Reasons for Loss of Liquid in Pressure Canning or Siphoning

First, if you've lost liquid during the pressure canning process, you're certainly not alone, but it's important to learn the reasons for liquid loss so it doesn't happen more often than you'd like.

Growing Mint - Homesteading 101

Mint is a hardy perennial commonly associated with sweets.  Mint lends a cool, peppery bite to plenty of dishes.  It’s very fragrant, fast-growing but it can be invasive.

Starting from Mint Seed

Mint is very difficult to grow from seed and most plants grown from seed will be different than the parent plant.  This is because they are hybrid varieties that don't come true to form when grown from seed.  Growing Mint from seed is not recommended, but here are the details.

Growing Mint

Plant size:                                 Height 12”–18” height  Spreading.

Spacing:                                    8-24”.

Container Size:                         2 seedlings in a 12” container.

Soil:                                           Avoid very heavy soil.

Watering:                                  Loves moist soil.

Light/Sun:                                 morning sun and part afternoon shade.

Fertilizer:                                  Fertile soil.  Diluted fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.

Good Companions:                  Peas, tomatoes.

Bad Companions:                    Keep away from other spices.  Taste can transfer.

        Other Care Tips              

•  The plant can be rather invasive as it spreads through runners underground.
• In fall, cut back the plant to the ground
• Trim off the top of the plant for compact growth
• Mulch plant before the first frost.
• Bring a plant indoors in later summer for winter.

herb mincer

Dividing Mint

Mint propagates well through rootball division.  Use a sharp shovel to cut into desired pieces and replant at the same depth.  Dividing a Mint plant every two or three years will help keep the fresh scent and the flavor of the mint nice and strong.

Softwood Cuttings

Cut off a 4” sprig and place in 1” of water.  Remove leaves that fall below the waterline.  Small roots should appear under the water.  Change water every three to four days to prevent rot.  Wait another week then plant in soil.

Harvesting Mint

Right before flowering, cut the stems 1 inch from the ground. You can harvest one mint plant two or three times in one growing season. You can also just pick the leaves as you need them. You can grow the plants indoors for fresh leaves throughout the winter.

Storing Mint

Fresh
Bouquet Storage

This method works well for tender herbs with soft stems and leaves.

Clean and thoroughly dry the herb.  Trim the end of the stems and remove any wilted or browned leaves.  Place the Mint in a Mason jar or clear glass with 1" of water like a bouquet of flowers. Loosely cover with a plastic bag or cling wrap.  Label and store in the fridge.

Mint will stay fresh in the fridge with this method for up to 2 weeks.

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Freezing

For best results, use frozen Mint within 1-2 years.  By freezing herbs, you will lose some of the herb's texture but preserve the flavor.  Here are a few freezing options to consider:

Tray Freeze

Spread herb onto a cookie sheet on a single layer. Freeze in the freezer, then transfer the mint into a labeled freezer bag to store.  Since the leaves are frozen separately, you can easily remove the amount you need.

Ice Cube Trays

Clean and thoroughly dry the mint.  Mince and pack firmly into ice cube trays 3/4 full.  Add water to fill and freeze.  Transfer frozen cubes into a labeled freezer bag to store.

Flat Freezer Bag

Clean and thoroughly dry the mint.  Chop herb into 1/2" pieces, place in a labeled freezer bag. Squeeze out the air, lay flat and freeze.

Drying Mint

For best results, use dried Mint within 1-2 years.

Hang to Dry

Pick your herbs in bunches right before you intend to store them.  Tie the bottom of the bunch together with twine and hang upside down to dry in a dry, low humidity area. For added protection against dust, you can put the bundles inside paper bags with plenty of holes for ventilation.  When the herbs are dry, the leaves will crumble easily between your fingers.  Store in an airtight container.

Using Mint

• Perfect for summer salads and to liven up a sauce and to brew fragrant teas. 
• The flavor is also used to temper spicy curries. 
• Mint complements fish, chicken, lamb, and spices up vegetables like carrots and peas. 
• Spices up salads, too.

Growing your own herbs is fun, easy, more healthy than the herbs shipped to grocery stores, and what's best, saves you tons of money! Try it today.

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Growing Arugula -- Homesteading 101

GROWING Arugula 

aka  Rocket Roquette 

Cool-season annual plant

Height:  6-12"       Width 8-10"

The leaves of Arugula provide a spicy zing when added to salads.  It will grow a rosette about a foot wide and equally as tall.  It's a cut-and-come-again plant.  It boasts several health benefits.  It is an excellent source of fiber, rich in Vitamins A, C, and K as well as a good source of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium.

Types:

Wild Arugula.  Grows up to 2' tall with jagged leaves and a yellow flower.

Rocket Salad.  A weaker peppery flavor.  The plant grows up to 3' tall.  It has lobed leaves and a white flower.

   

Starting Seeds of Arugula

Seed Depth:                    1/8" on the soil surface and tamp down.
Seed Spacing:                 3-4"  Thin to 4-6".
Days to Germinate:          7-14 days.
Days to Harvest:              3 weeks/baby leaves,  45 days mature.
Seed Longevity:               4 years.

Sowing Outdoors

Direct sow in the ground or in containers as early as when the soil temperature is 40+ degrees.

 

                          

Winter Sowing

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat.  This method is especially good for sowing herbs and greens.  Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of a milk jug during the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in Spring.

To see our detailed article about Winter Sowing, click here.

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

 

  

Growing Arugula Plants

Growing Temperature: 
    
Arugula is frost hardy enough that it can grow through the winter in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.

Plant Spacing:                  12-18" apart.
Container Size:                 8" depth is enough.
Sun/Shade:                       Full sun, some mid-day shade.
Soil:                                   Rich, compost.
Watering:                           Consistent moisture for best flavor.


  

 
Fertilizing:

Since greens are such a  fast-growing crop, as long as they are grown in rich soil there may be little need for further fertilization.    That said, a liquid balanced fertilizer when the seedlings are 4" tall will give your greens a boost and carry them through their short season.  After the temperatures warm, though, the leaves of Arugula will turn bitter and no amount of fertilizer will help at that point.

 

Harvesting Arugula

Harvest when leaves are 4-6" tall.  Harvest outer leaves.  Harvest until leaves taste too strong.  Harvesting often will encourage new growth.

Using Arugula

• A great addition to any salad, but use sparingly for a mustard-like flavor.
• Pizza toppings.
• Add Arugula flowers to salads in late spring and summer for their peppery flavor.
• Cook larger leaves with other greens.
• Small leaves tend to be milder while the larger has a more peppery taste.
• Arugula goes well with most meats, especially grilled meats.

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Storing Arugula For Later Use

Remove Arugula's tough stems, clean and dry.
Although tender green-leafed plants, like lettuce, cannot be preserved well, the thicker leafed greens can be preserved.

Fresh

• Clean and pat dry.  Bundle stems lightly, place on a paper towel (to absorb moisture) and wrap in a plastic bag.  Keeps in refrigerator for 10 days.

  

Freezing for Later Use in Chilis, Soups, Sauces, and Casseroles.

• Steam or saute' leaves, chop them and store in freezer bags.
• Puree with water and freeze into ice cube trays.
• Clean and dry the leaves and store in quart size freezer bags.
• Frozen leaves will keep for 6 months.
• Blanching the leaves for two minutes first will extend freezer storage to 14 months.

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Growing Spinach - Homesteading 101

Spinach is a cool-weather quick-growing annual related to Beets and Swiss Chard. Spinach has high amounts of carotenoids, Vitamin C, Vitamin K, folic acid, iron, and calcium. It is one of the healthiest salad choices you can make.

The Basics

Annual
Height: 6" to 3' Width: 3" to 15"

Types:
Savory Spinach. Dark green crinkled leaves. It grows flatter compared to other Spinach. It tends to be more cold-hardy and becomes sweet and crispy after a frost.

Flat-Leaf Spinach. Grows more upright and easier to wash.

Semi-Savory. A hybrid between the two. Leaves aren't as crinkled or as smooth.

 

Starting Seeds of Spinach

Seed Depth: 1/2" deep

Seed Spacing: 2" apart, thin seedlings to 4-5" apart. Mature 10-12".

Days to Germinate: 1 week at 60 degrees.

Days to Harvest: 20-30 days for baby greens.
35-45 days mature leaves.

Seed Longevity: 1-3 years.

Sowing Indoors:
Spring: Sow seeds 3-4 weeks before your last average frost date. Transplant out as soon as seedlings are easily handled. Note that spinach doesn't always transplant well.

Sowing Outdoors:
Spring: Direct sow in the ground or a container as soon as the soil can be worked. Succession sow every 2 weeks until mid-May. Covering with a shade net or row cover will hasten germination.

Fall: Direct sow in the ground or container 6 weeks before your first average frost date.

  

Winter Sowing:

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat. This method is especially good for sowing herbs and greens. 

Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of a milk jug during the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in Spring.

For a detailed article all about Winter Sowing, click here.


 

Growing Spinach Plants

Growing Temperature: 41 - 75 degrees. Survives light frosts.

Plant Spacing: 5" to harvest small or 8-12" for mature leaves.

Container Size: Spinach has a deep taproot. The pot must be 12" deep.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to part shade.

Soil: Well-drained, sandy soil rich in organic matter.

Watering: Water consistently for the best flavor. Water stress will cause Spinach to bolt early.

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Fertilizing:

Since greens are such a fast-growing crop, as long as they are grown in rich soil there may be little need for further fertilization. 

That said, a liquid balanced fertilizer when the seedlings are 4" tall will give your greens a boost and carry them through their short season. After the temperatures warm, though, the leaves of Spinach will turn bitter and no amount of fertilizer will help at that point.

Too much nitrogen gives Spinach a metallic flavor.

 

Growing Tips

When the Spinach plant is about to bolt, pull the entire plant to harvest before the leaves become bitter.

Shade the plant at temperatures over 80 degrees.

Cut the entire plant an inch above ground level to encourage the plant to regrow another crop of leaves.

Harvesting Spinach

Harvest anytime Spinach is large enough to eat. Harvest young outer leaves to allow centers to grow larger and keep producing which also will delay bolting.

Using Spinach

Use fresh spinach for salads.

Chop fresh Spinach to add to chilis, soups or sauces two minutes before serving.

Sauteed Spinach, Spinach Dip, Spinach Salads, Creamed Spinach.




Storing Spinach For Later Use

Spinach loses its nutritional quality quickly after harvest, so harvest right before processing.

Although tender green-leafed plants, like lettuce, cannot be preserved well, the thicker leafed greens can be preserved.

Fresh
Clean and pat dry. Bundle stems lightly, place on a paper towel (to absorb moisture) and wrap in a plastic bag. Keeps in refrigerator for 10 days.

Freezing for Later Use in Chili, Soups, Sauces, and Casseroles.

Steam or saute' leaves, chop them and store in freezer bags.

Puree with water and freeze into ice cube trays.
Clean and dry the leaves and store in quart size freezer bags.

Frozen leaves will keep for 6 months.

Blanching the leaves for two minutes first will extend freezer storage to 14 months. 

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Pruning Hostas

Hostas are well known to be one of the easiest perennials to grow. 

And while pruning hosta leaves isn't necessary to maintain your hostas' shape or size, you can keep them looking beautiful as long as possible during the season with some easy seasonal pruning.

 

Winter Sow your Vegetable Seeds!

First off, if you are unfamiliar with the basics of winter sowing, you may want to start with the Winter Sowing 101 article, then come back for the vegetable sowing specifics.

Common Reasons for Winter Sowing Failures

 

Winter Sowing Failures and Reasons

Winter sowing has become one of my favorite ways to grow plants.  It's also becoming more and more popular because it's easy and it works!


But, if you’ve read the Winter Sowing 101 guide and tried the winter sowing method but had some failures, the reasons for your lackluster results are probably listed below, along with ways to help ensure future success.

Further Reading:  Winter Sowing 101

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

Seeds Didn't Germinate

A common reason is bad seeds. Simple enough, right?


If you had very little or no germination at all, it could be as simple as old seeds.

Different types of seeds have different shelf lives. For instance, onion seeds are only viable for one to two years and should be used the year after they’re harvested, ifpossible; whereas seeds of collards and cucumbers can be viable for up to and even after five years when stored properly in cool, dry conditions.

A Little Bit About Traded Seeds

For years I tried to save money by trading seeds on the internet and locally. Trading seeds will save you money, but you really don’t know that those seeds are actually the type of seed marked on the packet, how old the seeds are or how the package of seeds has been stored.

If you’re growing flowers from seed, having a germination failure from old or traded seeds is not a really big issue as you probably have time to reseed.  But if you’re trying to grow a food crop from bad/old seed, you could lose an entire growing season of that crop by the time you realize there's a problem.   

I recommend that you spend the money and buy your food crop seeds from a reputable seed supplier. There are several big names that will pop up on an internet search.

A Bit about Sow Times

There’s really only a few things to remember about when to sow the seeds and put them outside in their winter sowing containers.



Seeds of annual warm-season plants are generally sown four weeks before your average last frost date. Sowing them a lot earlier increases your odds of the seeds sitting in the containers longer than they need to and rotting from excessive moisture.



Some seeds, like most hardy perennials and cold weather crops,  need a period of cold stratification, and that's why these seeds are sown and placed outside a few months earlier than the others.  This "cold stratification" helps the seeds to slowly break dormancy and initiate the germination process when the weather is right.

Conditions Aren't Right For Germination Yet

It's important to remember that different seeds of plant types will germinate at different times as the seeds are waiting for the right conditions.



For instance, seeds of cold hardy plants need the cooler temperatures and will generally germinate before seeds of warm weather plants.



If the seeds haven't  germinated when you expected, it may just be a case of waiting a few weeks longer for the seed to get the right conditions to germinate.  Don't give up too soon.  Many winter sowers, including myself, have chucked a winter sown container only to find out that the seeds did germinate later.

 Seedlings Germinated then Died

Excess Water

Excess water not only can rot the seeds as they wait to germinate, but can kill seedlings once they’re up.  Having an adequate amount of drainage holes in the bottom of the winter sown container is very important.



For a milk jug container, I put at least five to six drainage holes in the bottom. If you’re using a knife to cut slits for drainage, I would double that. More is better.

If the containers were placed for the winter in an area where excessive rainfall has fallen on them, like under house eves, (I've done that), that extra rain could rot what's inside.




Also, if the containers were placed directly on soil, the soil underneath may have eventually clogged the drainage holes.  I place my winter sown containers on top of a graveled area for extra drainage.

Late Frosts

If there's a late frost after the seedlings are up,

throw a blanket or like item over the containers and take it off in the morning. Winter sown seedlings are relatively hardy since they are already somewhat acclimated to the outside weather, however, they are still only seedlings, and big swings in temperature will necessitate the extra care.

Excess Heat

The same winter sown enclosures that keep the soil and seedlings warmer in cold weather will also allow the containers to keep in the sun's warmth, and an unusually hot, sunny day can literally fry young seedlings.

Placing the containers facing south will give the containers a bit of an edge against really harsh winters.  Once the weather begins to warm and the sun becomes stronger,  moving the containers to an area with less direct sun is recommended.

As late spring approaches, I like to cut "windows" into the sides of the containers for even more airflow.

Soil Dried Out

The lids of the containers are left off for the sole purpose of letting moisture in during the winter or colder weather.  But once the seedlings are up and the weather warms and rainfall decreases,  it’s necessary to check on the soil every few days just to make sure it hasn’t completely dried out. A good spritz of water on the top of the soil may be enough.  

In drier conditions you may need to water the soil well, and  bottom watering the containers is the best way to do that. Just set the containers in a tub of a few inches of water, maybe a kids' pool, and let the soil drink up what it needs. Make sure you take the containers out once the soil is saturated.

Lack of Nutrition

Spring is a very busy time in the garden, and sometimes my winter sown seedlings or plants don't get planted as early as I would like.

If you notice that some leaves on the seedlings are yellowing, a shot of diluted balanced fertilizer at  1/4 strength can give them the shot they need to remain healthy.  This is even more important if you had used a soil mix in the containers that did not contain any fertilizer.

I use a regular potting soil that contains a small amount of fertilizer, and that is usually enough to sustain the seedlings until transplant.

Seedlings Die After Transplanting

Even though winter sown seedlings are already much hardier than those grown inside under grow lights which need to be hardened off, they will still need more care until they are well established in their final destination.

Further Reading:  How to Harden Off Seedlings


If in doubt that the seedlings are strong enough to transplant out into the garden, let them grow in the container a bit longer.  And when you do transplant the seedlings, shade them for a few days with a tented piece of cardboard or the like as you would with any transplant.

Transplanting Tip

If you have more seedlings than you really need and they've grown together in a hunk, instead of disturbing the roots and planting them separately, you can transplant a hunk of seedlings together and let the hardiest survive. 


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So there’s my top reasons for why you may have gotten less than stellar results from your winter sowing attempt. 

Paying extra attention to those pitfalls at the critical stage of germination and early growth can ensure you future success.

And once that success comes, you'll want to winter sow every year!

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Other Related Articles

Winter Sowing 101

Winter Sowing Vegetables

Winter Sowing.  What to do after Sprouting

Winter Sowing - Common Failures and How to Avoid Them

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Growing Sage - Homesteading 101

 

GROWING SAGE

Perennial Zones 4 – 8 (Hardiness Varies)

Sage is a shrubby perennial that’s an obvious choice for the kitchen.  From spring through mid-summer, Sage displays blue to lavender flowers which are very attractive to birds.  It has an earthy, rich, spicy flavor and it is part of the mint family.

The most popular types of culinary Sage are Garden Sage, Golden Garden Sage, Berggarten Garden Sage, Dwarf Garden Sage, Tricolor Garden Sage, and Window Box Sage.

Starting Sage from Seed

Seed Longevity:                                            2 years.

Seed Sowing Depth:                                     Surface, cover lightly.

Best Soil Temp for Germination:                   65 – 70 degrees.

Days to Germination:                                    15-21 days.

Spring Sowing:                                             

Sow Indoors 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost.  Transplant out after the last frost date.

Fall:    Not recommended.

Winter Sowing

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat.  This method is especially good for sowing herbs.  Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of milk jugs in the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in the Spring.

For our article containing detailed information about Winter Sowing, see our separate article.

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

Growing Sage

Plant Size:                                                     1-3’ Height.

Growing Soil Temperature:                            55 – 80 degrees.

Spacing:                                                         12 - 18”.

Container Size:                                              12” x 12” good size for Sage.

Soil:                                                                Well-drained.                                                             

Watering:                                    Light, only during dry spells.  Avoid overwatering.

Light/Sun:                                    Full sun to light shade.

Fertilizer:                                      Add some compost throughout the year.

Other Care Tips:   

• Prefers cool to warm temperatures and will need some shade during the hot weather.
• The plant should be replaced every 4-5 years.
• Remove flower spikes before they have a chance to flower.
• After three years, trim off woody parts to encourage new growth.

Dividing Sage

Best to divide Sage every 4-5 years when the plant becomes woody.  Dig up the entire plant, and using a sharp shovel, divide it into sections.  Remove all woody parts and replant the tender sections planting at the same depth.

Softwood Cuttings of Sage

Take cuttings in spring when new growth is several inches in length.  Side shoots of 4" in length are perfect. Cut the stem at an angle and remove lower leaves leaving an inch or two of the stem bare.  Plant cutting bare side down into a well-drained soil mix.  No fertilizer is needed at this stage.

Wrap the container in plastic to keep in humidity.  Avoid having the leaves touch the plastic.  Place the pot in light but out of direct light.  Keep soil moist but never soggy.  Remove the plastic when cutting grows roots.  A light tug that gives you some resistance means it has rooted.

Harvesting Sage

Start to harvest Sage once you see good growth on the plant.  Best harvested when tops of blossoms are barely open.  You can gather leaves at any time.  Sage is most flavorful as flowers begin to open. Purple-leaved Sage tends to be more aromatic than green-leaved Sage.

Storing Sage

Fresh
Damp Paper Towel

This method works well for hardy herbs that have woody stems as well as a few soft-stemmed herbs.

Clean and thoroughly dry the Sage.  Arrange lengthwise in a single layer on a slightly damp paper towel.  Loosely roll up the herb and transfer to a plastic bag or plastic wrap.  Label and store in the fridge.  Sage will stay fresh in the fridge using this method for up to 2 weeks.

Freezing

For best results, use frozen Sage within 1-2 years.  By freezing herbs, you will lose some of the herb's texture but preserve the flavor.  Here are a few freezing options to consider:

Tray Freeze

Strip leaves off the stems of the Sage and spread onto a cookie sheet on a single layer. Freeze in the freezer, then place it in a labeled freezer bag to store.  Since the leaves are frozen separately, you can easily remove the amount you need.

Ice Cube Trays with Oil

This method works well for hard-stemmed herbs that would probably be cooked when adding to a dish.  The oil reduces some of the browning and freezer burns.

Clean and thoroughly dry herbs.  Mince and firmly pack herbs into an ice cube tray 3/4 full.  Add Olive Oil to fill and freeze.  Transfer frozen cubes into labeled freezer bags to store.

Flat Freezer Bag

Trim off the stems and place them in a labeled freezer bag.  Squeeze out the air, flatten the freezer bag, label and store.

Drying

Sage contains more oil than most other herbs so it dries more slowly.  It is one of the best herbs to dry.   For best results, use dried Sage within 1-2 years.

Hang to Dry

Pick your Sage in bunches right before you intend to store them.  Tie the bottom of the bunch together with twine and hang upside down to dry in a dry, low humidity area. For added protection against dust, you can put the bundles inside paper bags with plenty of holes for ventilation.  When the herbs are dry, the leaves will crumble easily between your fingers.  Store in an airtight container.

Using Sage

• Sage can be overwhelming so start with small amounts.
• Use leaves fresh in recipes or add them sparingly to salads.
• Dried sage is commonly used with Thanksgiving stuffing. 
• It can be paired with pork, beans, potatoes, and cheese. 
• You can mix it into a soft cheese for a tasty bread spread.

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