Winter Sow Your Vegetable Seeds!
Winter Sow your Vegetable Seeds!
First off, if you are unfamiliar with the basics of winter sowing, you may want to start with the Winter Sowing 101 article, then come back for the vegetable sowing specifics.
Common Reasons for Winter Sowing Failures
Winter Sowing Failures and Reasons
Winter sowing has become one of my favorite ways to grow plants. It's also becoming more and more popular because it's easy and it works!
But, if you’ve read the Winter Sowing 101 guide and tried the winter sowing method but had some failures, the reasons for your lackluster results are probably listed below, along with ways to help ensure future success.
But, if you’ve read the Winter Sowing 101 guide and tried the winter sowing method but had some failures, the reasons for your lackluster results are probably listed below, along with ways to help ensure future success.
Further Reading: Winter Sowing 101
A common reason is bad seeds. Simple enough, right?If you had very little or no germination at all, it could be as simple as old seeds.
A Little Bit About Traded Seeds
For years I tried to save money by trading seeds on the internet and locally. Trading seeds will save you money, but you really don’t know that those seeds are actually the type of seed marked on the packet, how old the seeds are or how the package of seeds has been stored.
If you’re growing flowers from seed, having a germination failure from old or traded seeds is not a really big issue as you probably have time to reseed. But if you’re trying to grow a food crop from bad/old seed, you could lose an entire growing season of that crop by the time you realize there's a problem.
I recommend that you spend the money and buy your food crop seeds from a reputable seed supplier. There are several big names that will pop up on an internet search.
A Bit about Sow Times
There’s really only a few things to remember about when to sow the seeds and put them outside in their winter sowing containers.
Seeds of annual warm-season plants are generally sown four weeks before your average last frost date. Sowing them a lot earlier increases your odds of the seeds sitting in the containers longer than they need to and rotting from excessive moisture.
Some seeds, like most hardy perennials and cold weather crops, need a period of cold stratification, and that's why these seeds are sown and placed outside a few months earlier than the others. This "cold stratification" helps the seeds to slowly break dormancy and initiate the germination process when the weather is right.
Seeds of annual warm-season plants are generally sown four weeks before your average last frost date. Sowing them a lot earlier increases your odds of the seeds sitting in the containers longer than they need to and rotting from excessive moisture.
Some seeds, like most hardy perennials and cold weather crops, need a period of cold stratification, and that's why these seeds are sown and placed outside a few months earlier than the others. This "cold stratification" helps the seeds to slowly break dormancy and initiate the germination process when the weather is right.
Conditions Aren't Right For Germination Yet
It's important to remember that different seeds of plant types will germinate at different times as the seeds are waiting for the right conditions.
For instance, seeds of cold hardy plants need the cooler temperatures and will generally germinate before seeds of warm weather plants.
If the seeds haven't germinated when you expected, it may just be a case of waiting a few weeks longer for the seed to get the right conditions to germinate. Don't give up too soon. Many winter sowers, including myself, have chucked a winter sown container only to find out that the seeds did germinate later.
For instance, seeds of cold hardy plants need the cooler temperatures and will generally germinate before seeds of warm weather plants.
If the seeds haven't germinated when you expected, it may just be a case of waiting a few weeks longer for the seed to get the right conditions to germinate. Don't give up too soon. Many winter sowers, including myself, have chucked a winter sown container only to find out that the seeds did germinate later.
Seedlings Germinated then Died
Excess water not only can rot the seeds as they wait to germinate, but can kill seedlings once they’re up. Having an adequate amount of drainage holes in the bottom of the winter sown container is very important.
For a milk jug container, I put at least five to six drainage holes in the bottom. If you’re using a knife to cut slits for drainage, I would double that. More is better.
For a milk jug container, I put at least five to six drainage holes in the bottom. If you’re using a knife to cut slits for drainage, I would double that. More is better.
If the containers were placed for the winter in an area where excessive rainfall has fallen on them, like under house eves, (I've done that), that extra rain could rot what's inside.
Also, if the containers were placed directly on soil, the soil underneath may have eventually clogged the drainage holes. I place my winter sown containers on top of a graveled area for extra drainage.
Late Frosts
If there's a late frost after the seedlings are up,
throw a blanket or like item over the containers and take it off in the morning. Winter sown seedlings are relatively hardy since they are already somewhat acclimated to the outside weather, however, they are still only seedlings, and big swings in temperature will necessitate the extra care.
Excess Heat
The same winter sown enclosures that keep the soil and seedlings warmer in cold weather will also allow the containers to keep in the sun's warmth, and an unusually hot, sunny day can literally fry young seedlings.
Placing the containers facing south will give the containers a bit of an edge against really harsh winters. Once the weather begins to warm and the sun becomes stronger, moving the containers to an area with less direct sun is recommended.
Soil Dried Out
The lids of the containers are left off for the sole purpose of letting moisture in during the winter or colder weather. But once the seedlings are up and the weather warms and rainfall decreases, it’s necessary to check on the soil every few days just to make sure it hasn’t completely dried out. A good spritz of water on the top of the soil may be enough.
In drier conditions you may need to water the soil well, and bottom watering the containers is the best way to do that. Just set the containers in a tub of a few inches of water, maybe a kids' pool, and let the soil drink up what it needs. Make sure you take the containers out once the soil is saturated.
Lack of Nutrition
Spring is a very busy time in the garden, and sometimes my winter sown seedlings or plants don't get planted as early as I would like.
If you notice that some leaves on the seedlings are yellowing, a shot of diluted balanced fertilizer at 1/4 strength can give them the shot they need to remain healthy. This is even more important if you had used a soil mix in the containers that did not contain any fertilizer.
I use a regular potting soil that contains a small amount of fertilizer, and that is usually enough to sustain the seedlings until transplant.
Seedlings Die After Transplanting
Even though winter sown seedlings are already much hardier than those grown inside under grow lights which need to be hardened off, they will still need more care until they are well established in their final destination.
Further Reading: How to Harden Off Seedlings
If in doubt that the seedlings are strong enough to transplant out into the garden, let them grow in the container a bit longer. And when you do transplant the seedlings, shade them for a few days with a tented piece of cardboard or the like as you would with any transplant.
If you have more seedlings than you really need and they've grown together in a hunk, instead of disturbing the roots and planting them separately, you can transplant a hunk of seedlings together and let the hardiest survive.
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So there’s my top reasons for why you may have gotten less than stellar results from your winter sowing attempt.
If in doubt that the seedlings are strong enough to transplant out into the garden, let them grow in the container a bit longer. And when you do transplant the seedlings, shade them for a few days with a tented piece of cardboard or the like as you would with any transplant.
Transplanting Tip
If you have more seedlings than you really need and they've grown together in a hunk, instead of disturbing the roots and planting them separately, you can transplant a hunk of seedlings together and let the hardiest survive.
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So there’s my top reasons for why you may have gotten less than stellar results from your winter sowing attempt.
Paying extra attention to those pitfalls at the critical stage of germination and early growth can ensure you future success.
And once that success comes, you'll want to winter sow every year!
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Other Related Articles
Winter Sowing. What to do after Sprouting
Winter Sowing - Common Failures and How to Avoid Them
This post may contain some Amazon Associate links meaning that I will get a small compensation at no expense to you if you purchase something from this blog.
Growing Sage - Homesteading 101
GROWING SAGE
Perennial Zones 4 – 8 (Hardiness Varies)
Sage is a shrubby perennial that’s an obvious choice for the kitchen. From spring through mid-summer, Sage displays blue to lavender flowers which are very attractive to birds. It has an earthy, rich, spicy flavor and it is part of the mint family.
The most popular types of culinary Sage are Garden Sage, Golden Garden Sage, Berggarten Garden Sage, Dwarf Garden Sage, Tricolor Garden Sage, and Window Box Sage.
Starting Sage from Seed
Seed Longevity: 2 years.
Seed Sowing Depth: Surface, cover lightly.
Best Soil Temp for Germination: 65 – 70 degrees.
Days to Germination: 15-21 days.
Spring Sowing:
Sow Indoors 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost. Transplant out after the last frost date.
Fall: Not recommended.
Winter Sowing
For our article containing detailed information about Winter Sowing, see our separate article.
Growing Sage
Plant Size: 1-3’ Height.
Growing Soil Temperature: 55 – 80 degrees.
Spacing: 12 - 18”.
Container Size: 12” x 12” good size for Sage.
Soil: Well-drained.
Watering: Light, only during dry spells. Avoid overwatering.
Light/Sun: Full sun to light shade.
Fertilizer: Add some compost throughout the year.
Other Care Tips:
- Prefers cool to warm temperatures and will need some shade during the hot weather.
- The plant should be replaced every 4-5 years.
- Remove flower spikes before they have a chance to flower.
- After three years, trim off woody parts to encourage new growth.
Dividing Sage
Best to divide Sage every 4-5 years when the plant becomes woody. Dig up the entire plant, and using a sharp shovel, divide it into sections. Remove all woody parts and replant the tender sections planting at the same depth.
Softwood Cuttings of Sage
Take cuttings in spring when new growth is several inches in length. Side shoots of 4" in length are perfect. Cut the stem at an angle and remove lower leaves leaving an inch or two of the stem bare. Plant cutting bare side down into a well-drained soil mix. No fertilizer is needed at this stage.
Wrap the container in plastic to keep in humidity. Avoid having the leaves touch the plastic. Place the pot in light but out of direct light. Keep soil moist but never soggy. Remove the plastic when cutting grows roots. A light tug that gives you some resistance means it has rooted.
Harvesting Sage
Start to harvest Sage once you see good growth on the plant. Best harvested when tops of blossoms are barely open. You can gather leaves at any time. Sage is most flavorful as flowers begin to open. Purple-leaved Sage tends to be more aromatic than green-leaved Sage.
Storing Sage
Fresh
Damp Paper Towel
This method works well for hardy herbs that have woody stems as well as a few soft-stemmed herbs.
Clean and thoroughly dry the Sage. Arrange lengthwise in a single layer on a slightly damp paper towel. Loosely roll up the herb and transfer to a plastic bag or plastic wrap. Label and store in the fridge. Sage will stay fresh in the fridge using this method for up to 2 weeks.
Freezing
For best results, use frozen Sage within 1-2 years. By freezing herbs, you will lose some of the herb's texture but preserve the flavor. Here are a few freezing options to consider:
Tray Freeze
Strip leaves off the stems of the Sage and spread onto a cookie sheet on a single layer. Freeze in the freezer, then place it in a labeled freezer bag to store. Since the leaves are frozen separately, you can easily remove the amount you need.
Ice Cube Trays with Oil
This method works well for hard-stemmed herbs that would probably be cooked when adding to a dish. The oil reduces some of the browning and freezer burns.
Clean and thoroughly dry herbs. Mince and firmly pack herbs into an ice cube tray 3/4 full. Add Olive Oil to fill and freeze. Transfer frozen cubes into labeled freezer bags to store.
Flat Freezer Bag
Trim off the stems and place them in a labeled freezer bag. Squeeze out the air, flatten the freezer bag, label and store.
Drying
Sage contains more oil than most other herbs so it dries more slowly. It is one of the best herbs to dry. For best results, use dried Sage within 1-2 years.
Hang to Dry
Pick your Sage in bunches right before you intend to store them. Tie the bottom of the bunch together with twine and hang upside down to dry in a dry, low humidity area. For added protection against dust, you can put the bundles inside paper bags with plenty of holes for ventilation. When the herbs are dry, the leaves will crumble easily between your fingers. Store in an airtight container.
Using Sage
- Sage can be overwhelming so start with small amounts.
- Use leaves fresh in recipes or add them sparingly to salads.
- Dried sage is commonly used with Thanksgiving stuffing.
- It can be paired with pork, beans, potatoes, and cheese.
- You can mix it into a soft cheese for a tasty bread spread.
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Tulle - Great for the Garden!
Tulle Fabric
Ten Uses in the Garden!
If you've never used Tulle fabric in your garden, you're missing out on a great opportunity!
First, what is Tulle fabric? Tulle is a soft, fine silk, rayon or nylon material commonly used to make wedding veils and dresses.
Growing Cilantro - Homesteading 101
Starting Cilantro from Seed
Seed Sowing Depth: 1/4” to 1/2” deep.
Best Soil Temp for Germination: 55 – 65 degrees.
Days to Germination 7-10.
Seed Spacing: At 2-3” tall thin to 5” apart.
Spring Sowing
Start seeds indoors 2 weeks before the last frost date to plant out after the danger of frost has passed.Direct Sowing
After the threat of frost has passed and every three weeks until Fall.Fall Sowing
In warmer areas, direct sow in summer for a fall harvest.
Winter Sowing
If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat. This method is especially good for sowing herbs. Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of a milk jug in the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in the Spring.For a detailed blog about Winter Sowing, click here.
Other Sowing Tips
- Cilantro reseeds easily, so give it a place in your garden to do so.
- Cilantro will bolt quickly in hot weather.
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Growing Cilantro
Plant Size: Height 18-24" Width to 18"
Soil Temperature: 50 - 75 degrees.
Spacing in Beds: 6-8"
Container Size: 8-10" deep and 18" wide
Soil: Well draining.
Watering: Dry soil causes the plant to bolt.
Light/Sun: For seeds, full sun. For leaves, light shade.
Fertilizer: Avoid fertilizer if growing for seed since that may actually delay
flowering.
Other Care Tips
- For a continuous supply, make succession sowings every three weeks.
- Snip off the top part of the main stem as soon as it develops flower buds or seed pods.
Harvesting Cilantro Leaves
Leaves can be cut at any time. Use the upper newly-cut leaves for cooking.
Harvesting Coriander Seeds
Harvest large seeds on a dry day. Cut off the top of stems when the seed pods begin to turn brown and crack if pressed. Place seed pods in a paper bag and let dry. Pods can be rolled around in between your fingers to release the seeds.
Storing Cilantro
Fresh
Bouquet Storage
This method works well for tender herbs with soft stems and leaves.
Clean and thoroughly dry the Cilantro. Trim the ends of the stems and remove any wilted or browned leaves. Place Cilantro in a Mason jar or clear glass with 1" of water like a bouquet of flowers. Loosely cover with a plastic bag or cling wrap. Label and store in the fridge.
Cilantro will stay fresh in the fridge with this method for up to 3 weeks.
Freezing
For best results, use frozen Cilantro within 1 to 2 years. By freezing herbs, you will lose some of the herb's texture but preserve the flavor.
Here are some methods for freezing:
Tray Freeze
Spread the Cilantro onto a cookie sheet on a single layer. Freeze in the freezer, then transfer the herbs into a labeled freezer bag to store. Since the leaves are frozen separately, you can easily remove the amount you need.Ice Cube Trays
Clean and thoroughly dry the Cilantro. Mince and firmly pack herbs into ice cube trays 3/4 full. Add water to fill and freeze. Transfer frozen cubes into a labeled freezer bag to store.
Flat Freezer Bag
Clean and thoroughly dry the Cilantro. Chop herbs into 1/2" pieces, place in a labeled freezer bag. Squeeze out the air, lay flat and freeze.
Drying
Cilantro does not dry well.
Using Cilantro
- In omelets.
- A staple in Latin and Asian cooking. The sweet stems are usually eaten raw.
- Use fresh whenever possible.
- Sprinkle raw Cilantro on salads or salsas.
- The seeds are mildly spicy. Good for casseroles and baked goods.
- Also adds a nice aroma to the kitchen!
Growing your own herbs is fun, easy, more healthy than the herbs shipped to grocery stores, and what's best, saves you tons of money! Try it today.
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Hosta - Seasonal Calendar of Care
Seasonal Calendar of Care for Hostas
One of the reasons that hostas continue to be so popular is the fact that they're a very low maintenance perennial.
That being said, if you follow a few basic steps to care for them, you can keep your hostas looking healthy and beautiful throughout the season, whether they're snug in the ground or in pots.
Multi-Sow Seeds! Save Room!
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| Tray of Multi-Sown Seedlings |
Save Room Under Grow Lights!
Multi-Sow Seeds!
What's multi-sowing and why should you be doing it?
Multi-sowing refers to sowing several seeds, usually four to ten seeds depending on what you're growing, in the same seed-starting cell and allowing them to mature into small clumps. Then, rather than thinning them or planting them out one plant per space, the entire clump is planted together.
Growing Ornamental Sweet Potato Vines - Propagation
Growing Ornamental Sweet Potato Vines
The deeply lobed leaves of the sprawling vine of the Ornamental Sweet Potato (Ipomoea batatas) continue to be quite a show stopper in the garden. It's a great way to add a tropical feel to even the northern gardens.
Hypertufa 101 for Beginner Success
Hypertufa 101 - Detailed How-To
Once you know the basics of making hypertufa projects, you will only be limited by your own creativity! It's easy, it's fun, and you can look like an expert even on your first project!
It is recommended that you read through the entire article before beginning your first Hypertufa project. A good basic understanding of the entire process will help ensure first-time success.
Greenhouse? High Tunnel? Hoophouse?
Greenhouse? Glasshouse? Coolhouse? Hoophouse? High Tunnel? Coldframe?
What's the Difference?
Although many people use the term "greenhouse" for most of the other terms listed above, they are technically separate things.
Part of the confusion comes from the fact that most sellers of greenhouse-like structures will call any structure they're selling a "greenhouse" because that's the term customers are usually using as they search.
Glasshouses
Glass was once one of the only materials thought suitable for constructing a greenhouse-like structure. For some time, "glasshouse" and "greenhouse" were pretty much used synonymously.
Glasshouse structures were built out of glass, both the walls and the roof, because glass is transparent and allows an optimal amount of light for plant growth. Glass could capture the sunlight so that the area under the glass heated up.
Greenhouses
A basic definition of a greenhouse is a permanent structure; a building, room, or area in which the temperature is maintained within a desired range. A true greenhouse stays warm, even during the winter.
A "cold" or "unheated" greenhouse is a greenhouse without any heating device other than the sun. More on those germs below.
Greenhouses are used for cultivating tender plants, growing plants out of season, and protecting plants from wind, rain and animals.
They generally have some type of shelving system, and the plants are grown in pots on a table, not in the ground. Most greenhouse growing is done in trays, flats or pots where the grower can assure that the plants have the right amount of moisture, optimum soil and air temperatures in which to thrive.
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| Click to View |
After a while, greenhouses began to be constructed out of polycarbonate panels. This material helps to diffuse light more evenly than glass, which helps plants thrive and even grow faster.
Polycarbonate panels also protect plants from excessive sunlight or radiation as it naturally offers UV protection.
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| Click to View |
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| Click to View |
Unheated Greenhouses
Many hobby greenhouses are unheated by choice, but can be upgraded to include heat, electricity or water.
There are a multitude of choices of styles and sizes of unheated greenhouses on the market today.
Besides greens like spinach and lettuce, you can grow cold-tolerant veggies such as cabbage and broccoli in an unheated greenhouse.
Unheated greenhouses are not the same as Cool Houses.
A cool house is a greenhouse which is maintained at a relatively low temperature. It's commonly used for the forcing of hardy plants or the winter storage of dormant plants.
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| Click to View |
Cool Houses
Among the plants suited to cool greenhouses are azaleas, cinerarias, cyclamens, carnations, fuchsias.
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| Click to View |
Hoop Houses
The hoop house has found its home with commerical growers, small farmers as well as hobby growers.
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| Click to View |
As the name suggests, a hoop house is constructed from hoops made of flexible yet rigid material, typically PVC or metal fencing as pictured above. Recently cattle panel fencing is also used in place of actual hoops for more stability.
The hoop house frame is covered with an agricultural plastic, polyfilm or greenhouse plastic that protect plants from rain, wind and cold temperatures through passive solar heat. It allows growers to cultivate healthier crops through an extended growing season.
An extended growing season means growers with a hoop house can plant sooner in the spring, harvest later into the fall, and depending on the location, even harvest cold-loving crops through an entire winter.
 |
| Click to View |
One of the main differences between a greenhouse and a hoop house is that a hoop house is not considered a permanent structure. Hoop houses are generally taller than greenhouses with higher posts.
In greenhouses, heat control is done artificially to maintain a consistent temperature; while in hoop houses, temperature control is done naturally through doors and window openings. That is why a hoop house is a seasonal system and, therefore, considered a temporary structure.
Crops in a hoop house are mostly grown directly in the soil, whereas plants are grown on shelving in a greenhouse . With no artificial lighting or temperature controls, a hoop house is relatively inexpensive to buy and operate.
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| Click to View |
High Tunnels
Crops can be grown by either using conventional tillage in the natural soil or by installing permanent raised beds under the tunnel.
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| Click to View |
Cold Frames
A cold frame generally is a simple structure; a bottomless four-sided frame of boards with a removable glass or plastic top.
The back of the box is typically taller than the front which lets the top of the cold frame sit at an angle. This slope allows maximum sunlight to enter the structure and will help it shed rain and snow.
The frame is placed on the ground and is used to house, protect, and harden off seedlings and small plants utilizing solar energy and insulation to create a microclimate within the frame.
Cold frames are easy and inexpensive to build. They can be constructed from recycled materials including scrap wood, straw bales, bricks, and old windows.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
There are many different types of all of the above structures, but they are all built for the same general purpose -- growing plants!
Follow us on Pinterest!
Hit the "Follow" Button on our Home Page
This post may contain Amazon affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases without costing you anything extra.
Greenhouse? Glasshouse? Coolhouse? Hoophouse? High Tunnel? Coldframe?
What's the Difference?
Although many people use the term "greenhouse" for most of the other terms listed above, they are technically separate things.
Part of the confusion comes from the fact that most sellers of greenhouse-like structures will call any structure they're selling a "greenhouse" because that's the term customers are usually using as they search.
Glasshouses
Glass was once one of the only materials thought suitable for constructing a greenhouse-like structure. For some time, "glasshouse" and "greenhouse" were pretty much used synonymously.
Glasshouse structures were built out of glass, both the walls and the roof, because glass is transparent and allows an optimal amount of light for plant growth. Glass could capture the sunlight so that the area under the glass heated up.
Greenhouses
A basic definition of a greenhouse is a permanent structure; a building, room, or area in which the temperature is maintained within a desired range. A true greenhouse stays warm, even during the winter.
A "cold" or "unheated" greenhouse is a greenhouse without any heating device other than the sun. More on those germs below.
Greenhouses are used for cultivating tender plants, growing plants out of season, and protecting plants from wind, rain and animals.
They generally have some type of shelving system, and the plants are grown in pots on a table, not in the ground. Most greenhouse growing is done in trays, flats or pots where the grower can assure that the plants have the right amount of moisture, optimum soil and air temperatures in which to thrive.
|
| Click to View |
After a while, greenhouses began to be constructed out of polycarbonate panels. This material helps to diffuse light more evenly than glass, which helps plants thrive and even grow faster.
Polycarbonate panels also protect plants from excessive sunlight or radiation as it naturally offers UV protection.
|
| Click to View |
|
| Click to View |
Unheated Greenhouses
Many hobby greenhouses are unheated by choice, but can be upgraded to include heat, electricity or water.
There are a multitude of choices of styles and sizes of unheated greenhouses on the market today.
Besides greens like spinach and lettuce, you can grow cold-tolerant veggies such as cabbage and broccoli in an unheated greenhouse.
Unheated greenhouses are not the same as Cool Houses.
A cool house is a greenhouse which is maintained at a relatively low temperature. It's commonly used for the forcing of hardy plants or the winter storage of dormant plants.
|
| Click to View |
Cool Houses
Among the plants suited to cool greenhouses are azaleas, cinerarias, cyclamens, carnations, fuchsias.
|
| Click to View |
Hoop Houses
The hoop house has found its home with commerical growers, small farmers as well as hobby growers.
|
| Click to View |
As the name suggests, a hoop house is constructed from hoops made of flexible yet rigid material, typically PVC or metal fencing as pictured above. Recently cattle panel fencing is also used in place of actual hoops for more stability.
The hoop house frame is covered with an agricultural plastic, polyfilm or greenhouse plastic that protect plants from rain, wind and cold temperatures through passive solar heat. It allows growers to cultivate healthier crops through an extended growing season.
An extended growing season means growers with a hoop house can plant sooner in the spring, harvest later into the fall, and depending on the location, even harvest cold-loving crops through an entire winter.
|
| Click to View |
One of the main differences between a greenhouse and a hoop house is that a hoop house is not considered a permanent structure.
Hoop houses are generally taller than greenhouses with higher posts.
In greenhouses, heat control is done artificially to maintain a consistent temperature; while in hoop houses, temperature control is done naturally through doors and window openings. That is why a hoop house is a seasonal system and, therefore, considered a temporary structure.
Crops in a hoop house are mostly grown directly in the soil, whereas plants are grown on shelving in a greenhouse . With no artificial lighting or temperature controls, a hoop house is relatively inexpensive to buy and operate.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
High Tunnels
Crops can be grown by either using conventional tillage in the natural soil or by installing permanent raised beds under the tunnel.
|
| Click to View |
Cold Frames
A cold frame generally is a simple structure; a bottomless four-sided frame of boards with a removable glass or plastic top.
The back of the box is typically taller than the front which lets the top of the cold frame sit at an angle. This slope allows maximum sunlight to enter the structure and will help it shed rain and snow.
The frame is placed on the ground and is used to house, protect, and harden off seedlings and small plants utilizing solar energy and insulation to create a microclimate within the frame.
Cold frames are easy and inexpensive to build. They can be constructed from recycled materials including scrap wood, straw bales, bricks, and old windows.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
There are many different types of all of the above structures, but they are all built for the same general purpose -- growing plants!
Follow us on Pinterest!
Hit the "Follow" Button on our Home Page
This post may contain Amazon affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases without costing you anything extra.
Greenhouse? Glasshouse? Coolhouse? Hoophouse? High Tunnel? Coldframe?
What's the Difference?
Although many people use the term "greenhouse" for most of the other terms listed above, they are technically separate things.
Part of the confusion comes from the fact that most sellers of greenhouse-like structures will call any structure they're selling a "greenhouse" because that's the term customers are usually using as they search.
Glasshouses
Glass was once one of the only materials thought suitable for constructing a greenhouse-like structure. For some time, "glasshouse" and "greenhouse" were pretty much used synonymously.
Glasshouse structures were built out of glass, both the walls and the roof, because glass is transparent and allows an optimal amount of light for plant growth. Glass could capture the sunlight so that the area under the glass heated up.
Greenhouses
A basic definition of a greenhouse is a permanent structure; a building, room, or area in which the temperature is maintained within a desired range. A true greenhouse stays warm, even during the winter.
A "cold" or "unheated" greenhouse is a greenhouse without any heating device other than the sun. More on those germs below.
Greenhouses are used for cultivating tender plants, growing plants out of season, and protecting plants from wind, rain and animals.
They generally have some type of shelving system, and the plants are grown in pots on a table, not in the ground. Most greenhouse growing is done in trays, flats or pots where the grower can assure that the plants have the right amount of moisture, optimum soil and air temperatures in which to thrive.
|
| Click to View |
After a while, greenhouses began to be constructed out of polycarbonate panels. This material helps to diffuse light more evenly than glass, which helps plants thrive and even grow faster.
Polycarbonate panels also protect plants from excessive sunlight or radiation as it naturally offers UV protection.
|
| Click to View |
|
| Click to View |
Unheated Greenhouses
Many hobby greenhouses are unheated by choice, but can be upgraded to include heat, electricity or water.
There are a multitude of choices of styles and sizes of unheated greenhouses on the market today.
Besides greens like spinach and lettuce, you can grow cold-tolerant veggies such as cabbage and broccoli in an unheated greenhouse.
Unheated greenhouses are not the same as Cool Houses.
A cool house is a greenhouse which is maintained at a relatively low temperature. It's commonly used for the forcing of hardy plants or the winter storage of dormant plants.
|
| Click to View |
Cool Houses
Among the plants suited to cool greenhouses are azaleas, cinerarias, cyclamens, carnations, fuchsias.
|
| Click to View |
Hoop Houses
The hoop house has found its home with commerical growers, small farmers as well as hobby growers.
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As the name suggests, a hoop house is constructed from hoops made of flexible yet rigid material, typically PVC or metal fencing as pictured above. Recently cattle panel fencing is also used in place of actual hoops for more stability.
The hoop house frame is covered with an agricultural plastic, polyfilm or greenhouse plastic that protect plants from rain, wind and cold temperatures through passive solar heat. It allows growers to cultivate healthier crops through an extended growing season.
An extended growing season means growers with a hoop house can plant sooner in the spring, harvest later into the fall, and depending on the location, even harvest cold-loving crops through an entire winter.
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One of the main differences between a greenhouse and a hoop house is that a hoop house is not considered a permanent structure.
Hoop houses are generally taller than greenhouses with higher posts.
In greenhouses, heat control is done artificially to maintain a consistent temperature; while in hoop houses, temperature control is done naturally through doors and window openings. That is why a hoop house is a seasonal system and, therefore, considered a temporary structure.
Crops in a hoop house are mostly grown directly in the soil, whereas plants are grown on shelving in a greenhouse . With no artificial lighting or temperature controls, a hoop house is relatively inexpensive to buy and operate.
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High Tunnels
Crops can be grown by either using conventional tillage in the natural soil or by installing permanent raised beds under the tunnel.
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Cold Frames
A cold frame generally is a simple structure; a bottomless four-sided frame of boards with a removable glass or plastic top.
The back of the box is typically taller than the front which lets the top of the cold frame sit at an angle. This slope allows maximum sunlight to enter the structure and will help it shed rain and snow.
The frame is placed on the ground and is used to house, protect, and harden off seedlings and small plants utilizing solar energy and insulation to create a microclimate within the frame.
Cold frames are easy and inexpensive to build. They can be constructed from recycled materials including scrap wood, straw bales, bricks, and old windows.
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There are many different types of all of the above structures, but they are all built for the same general purpose -- growing plants!
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