Growing Herbs for Chickens -- Thyme!

 

The perennial shrub, Thyme, certainly deserves a place in every herb garden.  Not only is it one of the most useful plants in the kitchen, but it also has attractive foliage, long-lasting flowers and it's an easy-to-care-for compact plant.  English Thyme is used most often in cooking.

Types of culinary Thyme include Thymus Vulgaris, also referred to as Common Thyme, and include summer, winter, and French Thyme. 

Why Feed Thyme to your Chickens

Thyme is one of the best herbs to add to your chicken feed for aiding in the respiratory health of your chickens. Thyme also has antibiotic and antibacterial properties, along with being a natural system to boost their immune system.

You can provide it to your flock with Thyme by giving it to them fresh so they can eat it when they choose, or you can add the dried herb to their feed.

Another great way to use Thyme is in their dust baths where they can benefit from the essential oils in the plants.

Starting Thyme From Seed

Thyme seeds are difficult and slow to germinate, but it can be done.  It will take a year to get a good-sized plant.

Seed Longevity:                                            2 years.

Seed Sowing Depth:                                     Cover thinly.

Best Soil Temp for Germination:                  70 degrees.

Days to Germination:                                    7-10+ days.

Spring Sowing

Sow indoors 6-10 weeks before the last spring frost.   Plant outside 2-3 weeks before the first last spring frost.

Winter Sowing

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat.  This method is especially good for sowing herbs.  Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of milk jugs in the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in the Spring.

For our article containing detailed information about Winter Sowing, click here

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

 

Growing Thyme

Plant Size:                                                     Height 6-12”   Width 12”.

Growing Soil Temperature:                           70 degrees.

Spacing:                                                         12”.

Container Size:                                              Height:  6-8”   Width:  4 – 12”.

Soil:                                                                Well-drained.  Rich soil produces large plants that are less fragrant.

Watering:                                                      Light.

Light/Sun:                                                     Full Sun.

Fertilizer:                                                      Very little, not necessary.

Good Companions:                                      Cabbage, Tomato, Eggplant.

Bad Companions:                                        Onion family.

  

                       Other Care Tips                                            

• Trim leggy plants.
• Lightly mulch after ground freezes.

  
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Dividing Thyme

Divide Thyme after three or four years when the plant becomes woody.

  

Softwood Cuttings of Thyme

Take cuttings in spring when new growth is several inches in length.  Side shoots of 4" in length are perfect. Cut the stem at an angle and remove lower leaves leaving an inch or two of the stem bare.  Plant cutting bare side down into a well-drained soil mix.  No fertilizer is needed at this stage.

Wrap the container in plastic to keep in humidity.  Avoid having the leaves touch the plastic.  Place the pot in light but out of direct light.  Keep soil moist but never soggy.  Remove the plastic when cutting grows roots.  A light tug that gives you some resistance means it has rooted.

 

Harvesting Thyme

Harvest only lightly the first year.  The best flavor is mid-June and July or when the flowers are barely open.

Peel off leaves from the woody stem.  The stems from younger Thyme can be used as well as the leaves.  An established plant will keep coming back.

Harvesting Thyme Seeds

Shake the dry seed head to shake the seed free.  If they are ripe they will fall out.  If you break up the dried seed head, separating the seeds from the chaff will be time-consuming.

Storing Thyme

Fresh
Damp Paper Towel

This method works well for hardy herbs that have woody stems as well as a few soft-stemmed herbs.

• Clean and thoroughly dry the Thyme.  
• Arrange lengthwise in a single layer on a slightly damp paper towel.  
• Loosely roll up the herb and transfer to a plastic bag or plastic wrap.  
• Label and store in the fridge. 

Thyme will stay fresh in the fridge using this method for 2 weeks.

Freezing Thyme

For best results, use frozen Thyme within 1-2 years.

By freezing herbs, you will lose some of the herb's texture but preserve the flavor.  

Here are a few freezing options to consider:

Tray Freeze

Strip leaves off the stems and spread onto a cookie sheet on a single layer. Freeze in the freezer, then place in a labeled freezer bag to store.  Since the leaves are frozen separately, you can easily remove the amount you need.

Ice Cube Trays with Oil

This method works well for hard stemmed herbs that would probably be cooked when adding to a dish.  The oil reduces some of the browning and freezer burn.

Clean and thoroughly dry herbs.  Mince and pack herbs into an ice cube tray 3/4 full.  Add Olive Oil to fill and freeze. Transfer frozen cubes into labeled freezer bags to store.

Flat Freezer Bag

Trim off the stems and place them in a labeled freezer bag.  Squeeze out the air, flatten the freezer bag, label and store.

Drying Thyme

For best results, use dried Thyme within 1-2 years.

Thyme is one of the best herbs to dry.  For drying, harvest Thyme when plants begin to flower.

Hang to Dry

Pick the Thyme in bunches right before you intend to store them.  Tie the bottom of the bunch together with twine and hang upside down to dry in a dry, low humidity area. For added protection against dust, you can put the bundles inside paper bags with plenty of holes for ventilation.  When the herbs are dry, the leaves will crumble easily between your fingers.  Store in an airtight container.

Using Thyme

• Thyme is an essential element in Creole, Cajun, Greek, and French Cuisine.
•  Thyme can be paired with just about any kind of meat, poultry, fish or vegetable.
• Thyme is usually incorporated during the cooking process as opposed to the last minute.

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There's nothing like the aroma of fresh-picked herbs!  Try growing some today and save money!  Your chickens will love you for it!

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Azomite for the Home Garden

One of the most important things a gardener can do to have a successful harvest season is to make sure your soil is full of every nutrient your plants will need.

Gardeners seem to be much more familiar with N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) than they are micro nutrients and trace minerals. Micro nutrients and trace minerals are very important to build soil to attain healthier crops.

15 Garden Chores for Early Spring

Early Spring Garden Chores

Although the term “early spring” for me in Zone 6 Ohio may not be the same time as the “early spring” for your garden zone, for this article, early spring means that time of year when winter seems to be coming to an end and intermittent freezes and thaws are happening in the garden. The first signs of Spring!

   

WINTER SOWING 101

What is it and Why is it So Popular?

In a nutshell, winter sowing, or winter seed sowing, is sowing seeds indoors in the winter in mini greenhouse-like containers, like milk jugs or other recycled containers, and setting the containers outside in the winter elements until Mother Nature germinates the seeds in the spring.  That basically is the winter sowing method.

Growing Greens for Chickens -- Arugula!

GROWING ARUGULA FOR CHICKENS!

Chicken feed isn't cheep!  Luckily, there are some ways that you can reduce your bagged chicken feed bill.

Feeding your hens food scraps from your leftover meals is certainly one. But for putting a bigger dent in that feed bill, grow some healthy feed alternatives right there in your backyard or homestead.


Most greens are a wonderful choice to grow for your chickens. 

Why Feed Arugula to Chickens?

Arugula is quite good for chickens.  In fact, it is superior to many other leafy vegetables thanks to its abundance of vitamins and minerals all of which can help chickens thrive.

Arugula is commonly classified as a superfood among other leafy vegetables and is packed with a ton of nutrition, both in  vitamin and mineral form.


Arugula contains a phenomenal amount of vitamin K, folate, vitamin C, vitamin A equivalent, and beta-carotene, and it still contains a respectable amount of vitamins B2, B6, and vitamin E.

The leaves of Arugula will grow a rosette about a food wide and equally as tall.  Another benefit:  It's a cut-and-come again plant!

Arugula Basics

aka  Rocket Roquette 

Cool-season annual plant which is fast growing.

Height:  6-12"       Width 8-10"

Types:

Wild Arugula.  Grows up to 2' tall with jagged leaves and a yellow flower.

Rocket Salad.  A weaker peppery flavor.  The plant grows up to 3' tall.  It has lobed leaves and a white flower.

   

Starting Seeds of Arugula

Seed Depth:                    1/8" on the soil surface and tamp down.
Seed Spacing:                 3-4"  Thin to 4-6".
Days to Germinate:          7-14 days.
Days to Harvest:              3 weeks/baby leaves,  45 days mature.
Seed Longevity:               4 years.

Sowing Outdoors

Direct sow in the ground or in containers as early as when the soil temperature is 40+ degrees.

 

                          

Winter Sowing

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat.  This method is especially good for sowing herbs and greens.  Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of a milk jug during the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in Spring.

To see our detailed article about Winter Sowing, click here.

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

 

  

Growing Arugula

Growing Temperature: 
    
Arugula is frost hardy enough that it can grow through the winter in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse.

Plant Spacing:                  12-18" apart.
Container Size:                 8" depth is enough.
Sun/Shade:                       Full sun, some mid-day shade.
Soil:                                   Rich, compost.
Watering:                           Consistent moisture for best flavor.


  

 
Fertilizing:

Since greens are such a  fast-growing crop, as long as they are grown in rich soil there may be little need for further fertilization.    That said, a liquid balanced fertilizer when the seedlings are 4" tall will give your greens a boost and carry them through their short season.  After the temperatures warm, though, the leaves of Arugula will turn bitter and no amount of fertilizer will help at that point.

 

Harvesting Arugula

Harvest when leaves are 4-6" tall.  Harvest outer leaves.  Harvest until leaves taste too strong.  Harvesting often will encourage new growth.

Using Arugula

• A great addition to any salad, but use sparingly for a mustard-like flavor.
• Pizza toppings.
• Add Arugula flowers to salads in late spring and summer for their peppery flavor.
• Cook larger leaves with other greens.
• Small leaves tend to be milder while the larger has a more peppery taste.
• Arugula goes well with most meats, especially grilled meats.

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Storing Arugula For Later Use

Remove Arugula's tough stems, clean and dry.
Although tender green-leafed plants, like lettuce, cannot be preserved well, the thicker leafed greens can be preserved.

Fresh

• Clean and pat dry.  Bundle stems lightly, place on a paper towel (to absorb moisture) and wrap in a plastic bag.  Keeps in refrigerator for 10 days.

  

Freezing for Later Use in Chilis, Soups, Sauces, and Casseroles.

• Steam or saute' leaves, chop them and store in freezer bags.
• Puree with water and freeze into ice cube trays.
• Clean and dry the leaves and store in quart size freezer bags.
• Frozen leaves will keep for 6 months.
• Blanching the leaves for two minutes first will extend freezer storage to 14 months.

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Start growing Arugula for your flock! They will love you for it!

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Growing Herbs for Chickens -- Basil.

 

Chicken feed isn't cheep! Luckily, there are some ways you can reduce your bagged chicken feed bill.
Feeding your hens food scraps from your leftover meals is certainly one. But for putting a bigger dent in that feed bill, grow some healthy feed alternatives right there in your backyard or homestead.


Herbs are a wonderful choice to grow for your chickens. Not only do chickens like to eat many different herbs, but most herbs have some other uses you may want to try in the chicken coop and run.

 

            Why Feed Chickens Basil?

Basil is a nutritionally-dense herb that is high in plant protein.

Basil has antibacterial properties and a wide range of vitamins, minerals, and immune system boosting antioxidants.


Basil supports a strong immune system and aids in improving digestion, which is very important for chicken health.


Basil promotes mucus membrane and respiratory system health. This is important for chickens because they are particularly susceptible to respiratory issues, especially if the chicken run and coop aren’t large enough and/or aren’t cleaned often.


Add some crushed Basil to your chicken feed and watch their egg yolks turn a radiant orange.


Basil contains vitamins A, B, C, and K which help maintain good eyesight and strong bones.

 

How to Prepare Basil for Chickens

Fresh

A gathering of fresh basil in reach of chickens to peck at.

Drying Basil for Later Use

Air Drying

This method is the easiest, but is the longest way to dry basil.  You can tie the basil into small bundles and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight, until the leaves and stems are completely dry.

Oven Drying

Spread into a single layer on the dehydrator trays and dry for 2 to 4 hours until they are completely dry and brittle.  You can leave the oven door slightly open so all the moisture escapes.  

Dry for about two hours.  Don't forget to check on the leaves every 30-45 minutes.

You can leave the door slightly ajar so all the moisture escapes. Dry for about 2 hours, checking on the leaves every 30-45 minutes.  

 

Dehydrator Drying

Preheat the food dehydrator to 95 - 115F.  The temperature, humidity, and dehydrator model will determine how long you need to dehydrate the basil.  You'll need to keep an eye on the leaves.

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

How Much Basil is Safe for Chickens?

As with all chicken feed alternatives, begin by feeding in moderation. Your chickens will let you know which alternatives are their favorites!

Basil to Deter Pests in the Coop 

Pests don’t like aromatic herbs, so adding Basil throughout your chicken coops keeps many pests away.

In the nesting box, dried Basil acts as a pleasant odor control.  An electric herb grinder works wonders!

Where to Grow Basil

You can grow some herbs like Basil inside your chicken run by sowing seeds inside a wire fence circle like the above picture. It will keep your chickens from digging the plants right out of the ground until it's time to remove the fencing and let them feast!

Herbs are great plants to grow in pots and containers which can easily be moved right into the chicken run when ready to feed.


You can also designate a few raised garden beds for growing great food for your chickens so there's always some healthy foods available to toss in and watch the show!

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When you add herbs to other chicken food and their coop, you're assuring your chickens will maintain better overall health.

So save money on that ever-rising cost of chicken feed and grow some healthy alternatives for your hens and roosters. They will love you for it!

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Growing Bell Peppers

Seed to Table

The biggest reason that I take the time to grow my bell peppers from seed is, well, money.  

Summer Care for Hostas

  

Summer Care for Hosta Plants

Summer, especially late summer, can be tough on hostas.  Their fresh spring appearance starts to fade under the hotter sun.  There are some things you can do, though, to keep your hostas looking beautiful and fresh longer into the summer season.

Signs your Hosta is Water Stressed

Signs Your Hosta Plant is Water Stressed

Hostas are well known as easy-care perennials.  The fact that they come in such a variety of sizes, colors and leaf shapes is just one more reason why hostas remain one of the most popular perennials for shady and part sunny gardens.

One of the most important ways, if not THE most important way, of keeping your hostas healthy and beautiful is simple -- water.  

Growing Parsley for Chickens!

 

Parsley is a tender herb with soft stems and leaves.  It is popular for many reasons including its variety of uses, vitamin content and its ability to grow and give you a flavorful harvest even after a light snowfall.  Parsley has a light, peppery flavor that complements other seasonings.

Great Herb to grow for your Hens!

Parsley is the perfect addition to your chickens diet as it is rich in vitamins, promotes circulatory system development, and is a strong stimulate for laying.

 While they may not take to it at first, there are a few different ways you can incorporate parsley into your girls diet. Adding it fresh and chopped up to their layer feed is the best and easiest option (they will hardly even tell!) or you can try leaving a pot in the run for them to peck at the leaves, or scattered around the coop-it’s all down to your chickens preference!

Parsley is high in nutrients and vitamins and can help with blood vessel development. You can feed chickens parsley fresh or add it to their feed dry.

  

 

Types of Parsley

Curly Leaf Parsley.   Deep curled leaves and attractive appearance.  Only used as a garnish.

Flat Leaf Parsley (AKA Italian Parsley) Preferred by cooks for its flat, celery-like leaves.  Pleasant tasting foliage can be eaten fresh or added to recipes.  Single Leaf Italian Parsley has a rich flavor that is best for seasoning cooked dishes.  

Giant of Italy Parsley.  Huge, dark green leaves with great flavor.  Strong, upright stems make this one of the best parsley varieties for fresh-market sales.

Starting Parsley from Seed

Parsley is slow to germinate, but after you do get it to the plant stage, it's not fussy at all.  To speed up this process, soak or refrigerate the seeds for a day before sowing them.

Seed Longevity:                                       2-3 years.

Seed Sowing Depth:                                1/4”.

Best Soil Temp for Germination:            65 – 85 degrees.

Days to Germination:                               21+ days.
   

            Spring Sowing                                             

Direct sow 4-6 weeks before the last frost date or as soon as the soil can be worked, or sow indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date. 

Winter Sowing

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat.  This method is especially good for sowing herbs.  Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of clear milk jugs in the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in the Spring.

For our article containing detailed information about Winter Sowing, click here

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.

             Other Sowing Tips                                   

You can also start seeds in a pot in late summer and grow the plant outside until the first frost, then bring the plant indoors.

Growing Parsley

Plant Size:    12-18” Height.

Growing Soil Temperature:     60 – 65 degrees.

Spacing:     9-12”.

Container Size:  6-18” in diameter   12” deep.                          

For fresh parsley all winter long, transplant one or two plants in a 10” container in late Fall and grow in a sunny window.

Soil:     Fertile, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline.

Watering:    Light.  Parsley has shallow roots.

Light/Sun:   Full sun to light shade.

Fertilizer:     None.

Good Companions:   Asparagus, corn, pepper, tomato.

Other Care Tips:

Keep roots cool and moist by mulching.

In September, cut back plants set out in spring to promote new foliage.

Dividing Parsley

Dig up the Parsley plant.  Locate the older growth which will have a slightly darker hue.  This growth is vital to the plant.  Divide into thirds and replant at the same depth.  Do not harvest sections again for at least 3 weeks.

Cuttings of Parsley

Take cuttings in spring when new growth is several inches in length.  Side shoots of 4" in length are perfect. Cut the stem at an angle and remove lower leaves leaving an inch or two of the stem bare.  Plant cutting bare side down into a  well-drained soil mix.  No fertilizer is needed at this stage.

Wrap the container in plastic to keep in humidity.  Avoid having the leaves touch the plastic.  Place the pot in light but out of direct light.  Keep soil moist but never soggy.  Remove the plastic when cutting grows roots.  A light tug that yields some resistance will let you know that roots have formed.

Harvesting Parsley

Harvest Parsley as needed, starting with the larger outer leaves.  You can also harvest the long stems with the leaf blades.  You can cut above the soil level for a bunch and it will grow new foliage.

Harvesting Parsley Seed

Parsley does not go to seed the first year.  Harvest the Parsley seeds of second-year plants when they have turned dark brown.  If the seeds are harvested earlier, they may not be viable.  Shake seeds off the seed heads and into a paper bag to dry.  You can also pluck out seeds as they turn brown as they tend to ripen at separate times.

Storing Parsley

Fresh
Bouquet Storage

This method works well for tender herbs with soft stems and leaves.

• Clean and thoroughly dry the herb.  
• Trim the end of the stems and remove any wilted or browned leaves.  
• Fill a Mason jar or clear glass with 1" of water.  
• Place the herbs in the jar like a bouquet of flowers
• Loosely cover with a plastic bag or cling wrap.  Label and store in the fridge.

Parsley will stay fresh in the fridge with this method for 3 weeks.

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Freezing Parsley

For best results, use frozen Parsley within 1-2 years. 

By freezing herbs, you will lose some of the herb's texture but preserve the flavor. 

Here are a few freezing options to consider:

Tray Freeze

Spread herb onto a cookie sheet on a single layer. Freeze in the freezer, then transfer the herbs into a labeled freezer bag to store.  Since the leaves are frozen separately, you can easily remove the amount you need.

 

Ice Cube Trays

Clean and thoroughly dry herbs.  Mince and pack herbs into ice cube trays 3/4 full.  Add water to fill and freeze.  Transfer frozen cubes into a labeled freezer bag to store.

 

Flat Freezer Bag

Clean and thoroughly dry herbs.  Chop herb into 1/2" pieces, place in a labeled freezer bag. Squeeze out the air, lay flat and freeze.

Drying Parsley

Hang to Dry

Pick your herbs in bunches right before you intend to store them.  Tie the bottom of the bunch together with twine and hang upside down to dry in a dry, low humidity area. For added protection against dust, you can put the bundles inside paper bags with plenty of holes for ventilation.  When the herbs are dry, the leaves will crumble easily between your fingers.  Store in an air tight container.  For best results, use dried Parsley within 1-2 years.

Dehydrate Parsley in Dehydrator

 

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Growing herbs for your egg-laying flock is fun, easy, more healthy than the herbs shipped to grocery stores, and what's best, saves you tons of money! Try it today!

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This post may contain some Amazon Associate links meaning that I will get a small compensation at no expense to you if you purchase something from this blog

Use of Epsom Salt on Hostas!

Hostas continue to be one of the most popular perennials in shady and party shady gardens. It's no wonder. Hostas are easy to grow and care for, they don't require a lot of special attention and they come in a vast array of sizes, shapes, and great leaf colors.

Spring Care for Hostas!

Spring Care for Hosta Plants

After a long, dreary winter, Springtime in the hosta garden seems like a magical time.  The hostas are sprouting their gorgeous green tips signaling the beginning of another great gardening season!

Keep your hostas looking happy and healthy with these seasonal reminders and care tips for Spring! 

Sun's Effect on Blue-Leafed Hostas

The Sun's Effect on Blue Hostas

Blue hostas require the most protection from the sun because the blue color is actually a waxy coating on the top and or bottom side of the leaves. The leaves are actually a shade of green, but the waxy coating makes them appear those great shades of blue.

Too much sun can cause the waxy coating on blue hosta leaves to melt off and expose the green leaf underneath. This is the reason it is recommended that blue hostas are planted in more shade than other hostas.

The blue hostas are always very popular and there are several shades of blue-leaved hostas. Blue hosta leaves will become bluer and bluer each year as they move to maturity, usually about four to five years.