Greenhouse? High Tunnel? Hoophouse?

 





Greenhouse?  Glasshouse?  Coolhouse? Hoophouse?  High Tunnel? Coldframe?
 

 What's the Difference?

  

Although many people use the term "greenhouse" for most of the other terms listed above, they are technically separate things.


Part of the confusion comes from the fact that most sellers of greenhouse-like structures will call any structure they're selling a "greenhouse" because that's the term customers are usually using as they search.


Glasshouses


Glass was once one of the only materials thought suitable for constructing a greenhouse-like structure.  For some time, "glasshouse" and "greenhouse" were pretty much used synonymously.


Glasshouse structures were built out of glass, both the walls and the roof, because glass is transparent and allows an optimal amount of light for plant growth.  Glass could capture the sunlight so that the area under the glass heated up.









Greenhouses


A basic definition of a greenhouse is a permanent structure; a building, room, or area in which the temperature is maintained within a desired range.  A true greenhouse stays warm, even during the winter.  


A "cold" or "unheated" greenhouse is a greenhouse without  any heating device other than the sun.  More on those germs below.


Greenhouses are used for cultivating tender plants, growing plants out of season, and  protecting plants from wind, rain and animals.  


They generally have some type of shelving system, and the plants are grown in pots on a table, not in the ground.  Most greenhouse growing is done in trays, flats or pots where the grower can assure that the plants have the right amount of moisture, optimum soil and air temperatures in which to thrive.



Click to View


After a while, greenhouses began to be constructed out of polycarbonate panels.  This material helps to diffuse light more evenly than glass, which helps plants thrive and even grow faster.


Polycarbonate panels also protect plants from excessive sunlight or radiation as it naturally offers UV protection.  



Click to View
 

Click to View



Unheated Greenhouses

Many hobby greenhouses are unheated by choice, but can be upgraded to include heat, electricity or water.


There are a multitude of choices of styles and sizes of unheated greenhouses on the market today.


An unheated greenhouse is commonly used to grow greens during winter months, to start warm-season annuals, to propagate perennials, and to shelter frost-tender plants through the winter. 


Besides greens like spinach and lettuce, you can grow cold-tolerant veggies such as cabbage and broccoli in an unheated greenhouse.


Unheated greenhouses are not the same as Cool Houses.

Click to View


Cool Houses


A cool house is a greenhouse which is maintained at a relatively low temperature.  It's commonly used for the forcing of hardy plants or the winter storage of dormant plants.



Among the plants suited to cool greenhouses are azaleas, cinerarias, cyclamens, carnations, fuchsias.


Click to View
 


Hoop Houses


The hoop house has found its home with commerical growers, small farmers as well as hobby growers.


Click to View


As the name suggests, a hoop house is constructed from hoops made of flexible yet rigid material, typically PVC or metal fencing as pictured above.  Recently cattle panel fencing is also used in place of actual hoops for more stability.


The hoop house frame is covered with an agricultural plastic, polyfilm or greenhouse plastic that protect plants from rain, wind and cold temperatures through passive solar heat.  It allows growers to cultivate healthier crops through an extended growing season. 



An extended growing season means growers with a hoop house can plant sooner in the spring, harvest later into the fall, and depending on the location, even harvest cold-loving crops through an entire winter.


Click to View



One of the main differences between a greenhouse and a hoop house is that a hoop house is not considered a permanent structure.   Hoop houses are generally taller than greenhouses with higher posts.


In greenhouses, heat control is done artificially to maintain a consistent temperature; while in hoop houses, temperature control is done naturally through doors and window openings.  That is why a hoop house is a seasonal system and, therefore, considered a temporary structure.



Crops in a hoop house are mostly grown directly in the soil, whereas plants are grown on shelving in a greenhouse . With no artificial lighting or temperature controls, a hoop house is relatively inexpensive to buy and operate.

Click to View




High Tunnels


High tunnels are typically a type of hoop house which is built with extra headspace, tall enough to accommodate the entrance of large equipment such as tractors, tillers, and other tall farm machinery.



Crops can be grown by either using conventional tillage in the natural soil or by installing permanent raised beds under the tunnel.


Click to View
 



Cold Frames


A cold frame generally is a simple structure; a bottomless four-sided frame of boards with a removable glass or plastic top. 



The back of the box is typically taller than the front which lets the top of the cold frame sit at an angle. This slope allows maximum sunlight to enter the structure and will help it shed rain and snow.


The frame is placed on the ground and is used to house, protect, and harden off seedlings and small plants 
utilizing solar energy and insulation to create a microclimate within the frame.


Cold frames are easy and inexpensive to build. They can be constructed from recycled materials including scrap wood, straw bales, bricks, and old windows.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

There are many different types of all of the above structures, but they are all built for the same general purpose -- growing plants!



Follow us on Pinterest!

Hit the "Follow" Button on our Home Page



This post may contain Amazon affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases without costing you anything extra.









 



 





Greenhouse?  Glasshouse?  Coolhouse? Hoophouse?  High Tunnel? Coldframe?
 

 What's the Difference?

  

Although many people use the term "greenhouse" for most of the other terms listed above, they are technically separate things.


Part of the confusion comes from the fact that most sellers of greenhouse-like structures will call any structure they're selling a "greenhouse" because that's the term customers are usually using as they search.


Glasshouses


Glass was once one of the only materials thought suitable for constructing a greenhouse-like structure.  For some time, "glasshouse" and "greenhouse" were pretty much used synonymously.


Glasshouse structures were built out of glass, both the walls and the roof, because glass is transparent and allows an optimal amount of light for plant growth.  Glass could capture the sunlight so that the area under the glass heated up.









Greenhouses


A basic definition of a greenhouse is a permanent structure; a building, room, or area in which the temperature is maintained within a desired range.  A true greenhouse stays warm, even during the winter.  


A "cold" or "unheated" greenhouse is a greenhouse without  any heating device other than the sun.  More on those germs below.


Greenhouses are used for cultivating tender plants, growing plants out of season, and  protecting plants from wind, rain and animals.  


They generally have some type of shelving system, and the plants are grown in pots on a table, not in the ground.  Most greenhouse growing is done in trays, flats or pots where the grower can assure that the plants have the right amount of moisture, optimum soil and air temperatures in which to thrive.



Click to View



After a while, greenhouses began to be constructed out of polycarbonate panels.  This material 
helps to diffuse light more evenly than glass, which helps plants thrive and even grow faster.


Polycarbonate panels also protect plants from excessive sunlight or radiation as it naturally offers UV protection.  



Click to View
 

Click to View



Unheated Greenhouses

Many hobby greenhouses are unheated by choice, but can be upgraded to include heat, electricity or water.


There are a multitude of choices of styles and sizes of unheated greenhouses on the market today.


An unheated greenhouse is commonly used to grow greens during winter months, to start warm-season annuals, to propagate perennials, and to shelter frost-tender plants through the winter. 


Besides greens like spinach and lettuce, you can grow cold-tolerant veggies such as cabbage and broccoli in an unheated greenhouse.


Unheated greenhouses are not the same as Cool Houses.

Click to View

Cool Houses


A cool house is a greenhouse which is maintained at a relatively low temperature.  It's commonly used for the forcing of hardy plants or the winter storage of dormant plants.



Among the plants suited to cool greenhouses are azaleas, cinerarias, cyclamens, carnations, fuchsias.


Click to View
 


Hoop Houses


The hoop house has found its home with commerical growers, small farmers as well as hobby growers.


Click to View


As the name suggests, a hoop house is constructed from hoops made of flexible yet rigid material, typically PVC or metal fencing as pictured above.  Recently cattle panel fencing is also used in place of actual hoops for more stability.


The hoop house frame is covered with an agricultural plastic, polyfilm or greenhouse plastic that protect plants from rain, wind and cold temperatures through passive solar heat.  It allows growers to cultivate healthier crops through an extended growing season. 



An extended growing season means growers with a hoop house can plant sooner in the spring, harvest later into the fall, and depending on the location, even harvest cold-loving crops through an entire winter.


Click to View



One of the main differences between a greenhouse and a hoop house is that a hoop house is not considered a permanent structure.   


Hoop houses are generally taller than greenhouses with higher posts.


In greenhouses, heat control is done artificially to maintain a consistent temperature; while in hoop houses, temperature control is done naturally through doors and window openings.  That is why a hoop house is a seasonal system and, therefore, considered a temporary structure.



Crops in a hoop house are mostly grown directly in the soil, whereas plants are grown on shelving in a greenhouse . With no artificial lighting or temperature controls, a hoop house is relatively inexpensive to buy and operate.

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZ


High Tunnels


High tunnels are typically a type of hoop house which is built with extra headspace, tall enough to accommodate the entrance of large equipment such as tractors, tillers, and other tall farm machinery.



Crops can be grown by either using conventional tillage in the natural soil or by installing permanent raised beds under the tunnel.


Click to View
 



Cold Frames


A cold frame generally is a simple structure; a bottomless four-sided frame of boards with a removable glass or plastic top. 



The back of the box is typically taller than the front which lets the top of the cold frame sit at an angle. This slope allows maximum sunlight to enter the structure and will help it shed rain and snow.


The frame is placed on the ground and is used to house, protect, and harden off seedlings and small plants 
utilizing solar energy and insulation to create a microclimate within the frame.


Cold frames are easy and inexpensive to build. They can be constructed from recycled materials including scrap wood, straw bales, bricks, and old windows.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

There are many different types of all of the above structures, but they are all built for the same general purpose -- growing plants!



Follow us on Pinterest!

Hit the "Follow" Button on our Home Page



This post may contain Amazon affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases without costing you anything extra.









 



 





Greenhouse?  Glasshouse?  Coolhouse? Hoophouse?  High Tunnel? Coldframe?
 

 What's the Difference?

  

Although many people use the term "greenhouse" for most of the other terms listed above, they are technically separate things.


Part of the confusion comes from the fact that most sellers of greenhouse-like structures will call any structure they're selling a "greenhouse" because that's the term customers are usually using as they search.


Glasshouses


Glass was once one of the only materials thought suitable for constructing a greenhouse-like structure.  For some time, "glasshouse" and "greenhouse" were pretty much used synonymously.


Glasshouse structures were built out of glass, both the walls and the roof, because glass is transparent and allows an optimal amount of light for plant growth.  Glass could capture the sunlight so that the area under the glass heated up.









Greenhouses


A basic definition of a greenhouse is a permanent structure; a building, room, or area in which the temperature is maintained within a desired range.  A true greenhouse stays warm, even during the winter.  


A "cold" or "unheated" greenhouse is a greenhouse without  any heating device other than the sun.  More on those germs below.


Greenhouses are used for cultivating tender plants, growing plants out of season, and  protecting plants from wind, rain and animals.  


They generally have some type of shelving system, and the plants are grown in pots on a table, not in the ground.  Most greenhouse growing is done in trays, flats or pots where the grower can assure that the plants have the right amount of moisture, optimum soil and air temperatures in which to thrive.



Click to View



After a while, greenhouses began to be constructed out of polycarbonate panels.  This material 
helps to diffuse light more evenly than glass, which helps plants thrive and even grow faster.


Polycarbonate panels also protect plants from excessive sunlight or radiation as it naturally offers UV protection.  



Click to View
 

Click to View



Unheated Greenhouses

Many hobby greenhouses are unheated by choice, but can be upgraded to include heat, electricity or water.


There are a multitude of choices of styles and sizes of unheated greenhouses on the market today.


An unheated greenhouse is commonly used to grow greens during winter months, to start warm-season annuals, to propagate perennials, and to shelter frost-tender plants through the winter. 


Besides greens like spinach and lettuce, you can grow cold-tolerant veggies such as cabbage and broccoli in an unheated greenhouse.


Unheated greenhouses are not the same as Cool Houses.

Click to View

Cool Houses


A cool house is a greenhouse which is maintained at a relatively low temperature.  It's commonly used for the forcing of hardy plants or the winter storage of dormant plants.



Among the plants suited to cool greenhouses are azaleas, cinerarias, cyclamens, carnations, fuchsias.


Click to View
 


Hoop Houses


The hoop house has found its home with commerical growers, small farmers as well as hobby growers.


Click to View


As the name suggests, a hoop house is constructed from hoops made of flexible yet rigid material, typically PVC or metal fencing as pictured above.  Recently cattle panel fencing is also used in place of actual hoops for more stability.


The hoop house frame is covered with an agricultural plastic, polyfilm or greenhouse plastic that protect plants from rain, wind and cold temperatures through passive solar heat.  It allows growers to cultivate healthier crops through an extended growing season. 



An extended growing season means growers with a hoop house can plant sooner in the spring, harvest later into the fall, and depending on the location, even harvest cold-loving crops through an entire winter.


Click to View



One of the main differences between a greenhouse and a hoop house is that a hoop house is not considered a permanent structure.   


Hoop houses are generally taller than greenhouses with higher posts.


In greenhouses, heat control is done artificially to maintain a consistent temperature; while in hoop houses, temperature control is done naturally through doors and window openings.  That is why a hoop house is a seasonal system and, therefore, considered a temporary structure.



Crops in a hoop house are mostly grown directly in the soil, whereas plants are grown on shelving in a greenhouse . With no artificial lighting or temperature controls, a hoop house is relatively inexpensive to buy and operate.


zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz




High Tunnels


High tunnels are typically a type of hoop house which is built with extra headspace, tall enough to accommodate the entrance of large equipment such as tractors, tillers, and other tall farm machinery.



Crops can be grown by either using conventional tillage in the natural soil or by installing permanent raised beds under the tunnel.


Click to View
 



Cold Frames


A cold frame generally is a simple structure; a bottomless four-sided frame of boards with a removable glass or plastic top. 



The back of the box is typically taller than the front which lets the top of the cold frame sit at an angle. This slope allows maximum sunlight to enter the structure and will help it shed rain and snow.


The frame is placed on the ground and is used to house, protect, and harden off seedlings and small plants 
utilizing solar energy and insulation to create a microclimate within the frame.


Cold frames are easy and inexpensive to build. They can be constructed from recycled materials including scrap wood, straw bales, bricks, and old windows.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

There are many different types of all of the above structures, but they are all built for the same general purpose -- growing plants!



Follow us on Pinterest!

Hit the "Follow" Button on our Home Page



This post may contain Amazon affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases without costing you anything extra.









 



Sun's Effect on Hosta Leaf Color

First Frost Hosta with Leaf Color change from sun



Sun's Effect on Hosta Leaf Color


Hostas plants continue to be a favorite perennial plant for plenty of reasons. Their toughness, beauty, ease of care and variety of great sizes, leaf colors and shapes make it one of the best plants for a shade or semi-shade garden.


Contrary to what some people may think, though, no hosta will survive, much less thrive, in complete shade. All plants need some sunlight to photosynthesize.

Best Care for Hostas in Pots

 
Grouping of potted hostas at varying levels


Best Care for Your Potted Hostas


To keep your hostas healthy and beautiful as they grow in pots, there are a few Hosta plants are beautiful anywhere, but I think they're even more so when they are planted in pots, especially when the pots are placed at eye level.   In my opinion, there's no better way to show off a hosta's great foliage.

Fertilizing Your Hostas


  
Variegated Hosta next to a Solid Leafed Hosta



Fertilizing Your Hosta Plants


It's no surprise that hostas continue to be one of the most popular perennial plants in a variety of gardens. Their beauty, toughness, and ease of care make them well suited for a shady or partly sunny area, and they will quickly become even a new gardener's favorite plant! 


But how can you keep those beautiful hostas thriving year after year?

Cleaning Birdhouses, Feeders and Baths


Birdhouse Collection of Different Heights



How to Clean Birdhouses, Birdbaths and Bird Feeders


One of my favorite parts of being out in the garden is listening to the sounds of nature, especially the chirping of birds. The last thing I want to do is make them sick by not giving my feathered visitors clean birdhouses, feeders and watering holes.

Best Sunflowers for the Birds




When I have the time to sit back and enjoy what I've created in my garden, one of my favorite things to do is enjoy the sights and sounds of the birds. Growing sunflowers is one of the best ways I have found to draw the feathery visitors in.


Which birds do sunflowers attract?



  



A variety of birds can be attracted to a garden by growing sunflowers. These include Cardinals, Chickadees, Titmice, House Finches, Grosbeaks, Nuthatches, Goldfinches, Red-bellied Woodpeckers and Pine Siskins, to name a few.



Why are sunflower seeds nutritious for birds?



Sunflower seeds are rich in protein, vitamin B-complex, Vitamin E, folic acid, calcium, iron, magnesium, and Zinc.

Not every sunflower type is the best food source for birds. Ornamental sunflowers, although they come in a wide variety of colors and sizes, produce edible seeds, but they're very small.


If you're looking for sunflower varieties to harvest for nutritional edible seeds for both birds and humans, here are some great choices.


 


Taller Edible Choices



Mammoth Russian

A favorite of bird lovers for years; single head.Height: 12 to 15 feet

Flower Head Size: 15” Thin shelled, plump, meaty seeds.


Mammoth Gray Stripe

Long blooming sunflower from summer to fall; single head.

Height: 8-12 feet

Flower Head Size: 10-12”


Giganteus

Blooms early to late summer; single head, generous seeds.Height: 10 feet

Flower Head Size: 12”


Kong Hybrid 

Kong Hybrid forms a massive wall of foliage. Rapid grower; branching.Height: 8-15 feet

Flower Head Size: 10”

Note: Pinch at 5 feet tall to create a tall, dense hedge.


Sunzilla  

One of the tallest sunflowers. Very productive with large yellow blooms.

Height: 12 - 16 feet

Flower Head Size: 18-24”


Hopi Black Dye   

An old heirloom. Seeds are used by Native Americans for dyeing wool and baskets. 

 Generally single-headed, but is occasionally multi-headed with varying size heads.

Height: 7-11 feet

Flower Head Size: 5 - 13” Seeds are purple to black


 



And if you are just starting to grow sunflowers for the birds, you can start by purchasing seed to get the birds used to an area.



 



Shorter, Easy-to-Reach Edible Cultivars



The shorter varieties have larger, plumper seeds that were bred for snack use.


Super Snack Mix Hybrid

Height: 5 – 6 feet

Flower Head Size: 10”; single head

Seeds: Huge seeds which are easy to crack open.


Royal Hybrid

Traditional type variety with larger seeds.Height: 7 Feet

Flower Head Size: 8”

Seeds: High seed productivity, grey striped.



 


Sowing Your Sunflower Seeds

When to Sow



It's a good idea to sow sunflower seeds as early as your weather will allow. The taller varieties need 100+ days from seed to harvest and the shorter varieties need at least 75 days. 


For a longer harvesting season, succession sow several batches of sunflowers over a five to six-week period or sow them indoors earlier as described below.

 


Direct Sowing into the garden



Sow sunflower seeds in a half-inch deep furrow, 6” apart then cover them with 1/2” to 1" of soil, depending on the seed size. Thin to 2 feet apart when the first true leaves appear. The temperature of the soil should be +70 degrees for good germination.


Since sunflowers have a long taproot, it is advisable to loosen the soil up to one and a half to two feet in depth. Adding compost and manure to the sowing area will promote vigorous growth and meatier seeds.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Winter Sowing

If you haven't tried winter sowing, you're in for a treat.  This method is especially good for sowing herbs, vegetables and flowers.  Winter sowing is basically sowing seeds in the bottom of milk jugs in the winter, setting the milk jugs outside for the winter and leaving them there until the seeds germinate in the Spring.


For our article containing detailed information about Winter Sowing, click here.

To watch our 30 minute video on how to winter sow, click here.
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The soil needs to be well-drained. Soil with poor drainage can stunt a sunflower's growth.


Large Trays for Sunflower Sowing


 



Indoor Sowing


Sow indoors to get a jump on the season 2-3 weeks before your last expected frost date. Keep moist under strong lights until planting out when all danger of frost has passed. Transplant carefully.



Winter Sowing


If you haven't given winter sowing a try, you will find that winter sowing sunflowers is very easy. See our full winter sowing article by clicking here.





Caring for your Sunflowers as they grow


Sun

Full sun. Optimally at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. They LOVE the heat.



Water

Sunflowers benefit from periodic deep waterings. They can withstand hot, dry weather. When the heads first appear, do not overwater since the heads may deform.



Mulch

2” for water retention.



Wind Protection

Shelter from high winds that can bend and break young stems.



Staking

Stake the sunflowers every 12" with soft ties or these great stakes.


 


Fertilizing


When the second set of leaves appear, fertilize the plants with a slow-release fertilizer 8” deep into the soil. Sunflowers are heavy feeders, so a second application mid-season may be necessary.



 


Protecting the Sunflower Seed Heads



Of course, you can leave your sunflowers in place and naturally feed the birds through the season. If you want to be able to harvest and save some seeds for later feedings or sowings, though, you will need to protect the developing seed heads by wrapping them in cheesecloth, netting or tying paper bags around the stems. 

Allow three weeks to a month drying time before picking them.


 


When to Harvest



You'll know when it's time to harvest your sunflower seeds when you see the backs of the blooms are brown and the sunflowers are dying back. The seeds should appear plump and somewhat loose at this stage. 


Cut the stalk about one foot below the flower head. Hang the sunflower heads upside down in a dry place until the seeds are completely ripe and dry.





Drying Sunflower Seeds for Later Use



Rinse the seeds, dry thoroughly in a single layer and store in an airtight container.


 


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Growing sunflowers is a great way to not only add beauty to your garden, but to attract some great birds!  Start growing some today!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



This post may contain Amazon affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases without costing you anything extra.


When is it Time to Divide my Hosta?

  

Hosta with ground dug around it ready to divide


When is it Time to Divide my Hosta?


Hostas continue to be one of the most popular and easy-to-care-for perennials in Zone 3 through 8 gardens.  It's no secret that many gardeners want to divide their hostas to spread the hosta love around their own garden or to share divisions with other hosta lovers.

All About Transplant Shock


How to Minimize Transplant Shock


Transplant shock is a natural occurrence whenever a plant is uprooted from its former home and moved to a foreign environment.


Moving a plant from one place to another is not as simple as digging it up, plopping it in the ground and hoping it will be fine. Plants that undergo too much transplant shock can be open to diseases, pests, and can weaken them to the point where they never fully recover. If they are food plants, you may notice a smaller harvest or no harvest at all.

Part Sun? Part Shade?

 



Part Sun?  Part Shade?

Determining Sunlight Exposure in Your Yard



Determining the sunlight exposure in your growing spaces can be less confusing if you know the reason behind the sun exposure terms used on seed packets and plant tags. 

How to Compost


Composting 101
A Little Art and a Little Science


Composting, in a nutshell, is turning your waste into nutrient-rich soil for use in your garden.


You can read about the subject in such depth as to make your head swim and find it to be quite overwhelming. But whether you start with a compost bin or a designated 3 foot by 3-foot area, knowing a few basic principles will help you achieve that rich, earthy-smelling soil amendment that we all want.

Sow Onion Seeds!




Give Your Onion Seedlings a Haircut!


If there's one crop that I love to grow indoors from seed, it's onions. Of course you can buy sets from your local hardware store or nursery, but there are usually only a few varieties available.


So not only do I have a larger selection of onion types to choose from if I buy the seeds online and grow them myself, but I can start them earlier indoors and give them plenty of time to grow before they get planted out.

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