But, if you’ve read the Winter Sowing 101 guide and tried the winter sowing method but had some failures, the reasons for your lackluster results are probably listed below, along with ways to help ensure future success.
If you had very little or no germination at all, it could be as simple as old seeds.
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For years I tried to save money by trading seeds on the internet and locally. Trading seeds will save you money, but you really don’t know that those seeds are actually the type of seed marked on the packet, how old the seeds are or how the package of seeds has been stored.
If you’re growing flowers from seed, having a germination failure from old or traded seeds is not a really big issue as you probably have time to reseed. But if you’re trying to grow a food crop from bad/old seed, you could lose an entire growing season of that crop by the time you realize there's a problem.
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Seeds of annual warm-season plants are generally sown four weeks before your average last frost date. Sowing them a lot earlier increases your odds of the seeds sitting in the containers longer than they need to and rotting from excessive moisture.
Some seeds, like most hardy perennials and cold weather crops, need a period of cold stratification, and that's why these seeds are sown and placed outside a few months earlier than the others. This "cold stratification" helps the seeds to slowly break dormancy and initiate the germination process when the weather is right.
For instance, seeds of cold hardy plants need the cooler temperatures and will generally germinate before seeds of warm weather plants.
If the seeds haven't germinated when you expected, it may just be a case of waiting a few weeks longer for the seed to get the right conditions to germinate. Don't give up too soon. Many winter sowers, including myself, have chucked a winter sown container only to find out that the seeds did germinate later.
For a milk jug container, I put at least five to six drainage holes in the bottom. If you’re using a knife to cut slits for drainage, I would double that. More is better.
If the containers were placed for the winter in an area where excessive rainfall has fallen on them, like under house eves, (I've done that), that extra rain could rot what's inside.
Also, if the containers were placed directly on soil, the soil underneath may have eventually clogged the drainage holes. I place my winter sown containers on top of a graveled area for extra drainage.
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The same winter sown enclosures that keep the soil and seedlings warmer in cold weather will also allow the containers to keep in the sun's warmth, and an unusually hot, sunny day can literally fry young seedlings.
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If you notice that some leaves on the seedlings are yellowing, a shot of diluted balanced fertilizer at 1/4 strength can give them the shot they need to remain healthy. This is even more important if you had used a soil mix in the containers that did not contain any fertilizer.
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Even though winter sown seedlings are already much hardier than those grown inside under grow lights which need to be hardened off, they will still need more care until they are well established in their final destination.
If in doubt that the seedlings are strong enough to transplant out into the garden, let them grow in the container a bit longer. And when you do transplant the seedlings, shade them for a few days with a tented piece of cardboard or the like as you would with any transplant.
If you have more seedlings than you really need and they've grown together in a hunk, instead of disturbing the roots and planting them separately, you can transplant a hunk of seedlings together and let the hardiest survive.
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So there’s my top reasons for why you may have gotten less than stellar results from your winter sowing attempt.