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Always happy to meet fellow gardeners and dog lovers! Feel free to e-mail me with questions or comments about all things gardening, especially hostas!

Friday, August 23, 2019

Top Ten Hostas to Brighten Up Your Shade Garden


Shade gardens don't have to be bland. There are the usual colorful shade perennials like the usual suspects like Astilbe, Foxglove and Bleeding Hearts. Those are good choices for some bright colors in a shade garden.


But have you ever considered incorporating bright-colored hostas into your shade garden scheme?


Here at Sunset Hosta Farm, we grow and sell the hostas we love. We have a good selection of bright leafed hostas.




Here are our top ten recommendations. Click on the name to see more information.


Small Hostas


Size: Small
Height: 12” Width up to 20”
Amber Tiara has thick chartreuse oval-shaped leaves with a blunt tip. It forms an attractive dense mound. The flowers are light purple on 22” scapes in late summer. Sure to brighten up your hosta garden.




MATURE SIZE: Small
Height: 10” Width up to 30”
A sport of H 'Sea Fire', Saint Elmo's Fire is a true beauty that is noted for its showy yellow leaves. As the season progresses, the leaves turn light green with pretty white margins. A very attractive bi-colored foliage display. It's a stunner!



Medium Hostas 

Size: Medium
Height: 18: Width up to 44”
The leaves of Grand Tiara are thick, heart-shaped, ovate and wavy. The gold margin is much wider than 'Golden Tiara' which gives the effect of a golden yellow leaf with a center splash of green. Good sun tolerance. Morning sun enhances the leaf color. In summer, the clumps are literally smothered with scapes of purple flowers making it one of the most popular Tiaras.



MATURE SIZE: Medium
Height: 16” Width up to 37”
June's leaves are of thick substance, 6” long and 4” wide at full growth making it very slug resistant. It sports a nice gold center and blue-green margins. The leaf center will turn green if sited in deep shade. Pretty lavender blooms in the summer. A sport of the popular H. Halcyon. Very pretty as well as sun tolerant. Part of our Hosta of the Year series. (2001)





MATURE SIZE: Medium
Height: 18” Width up to 30”
The reverse sport of H. Patriot, this hosta features dark green margins and white centers. The leaves are of very heavy substance. It displays pale lavender flowers in mid summer. A great specimen plant and a real beauty. Always on top of the customer favorite list and one of the best white-centered hostas ever!




The Shining

MATURE SIZE: Medium
Height: 20” Width up to 36”
This fast-growing beauty of the hosta world is especially charming when in bloom. Unlike most hostas, this bright mound of gold foliage produces gorgeous white to light lavender fragrant flowers in late summer. It displays the best color with half a day of sun. A stunner, and one you will want to use as a specimen plant or as a focal point.



Large to Very Large Hostas


MATURE SIZE: Large
Height: 22” Width up to 40”
If you want bright yellow color and you want it fast, this is the hosta for you. Dancing Queen has deep veins and heavily textured leaves. It emerges bright yellow in the spring and fades to pale yellow over the summer. Lavender flowers contrast nicely with the golden foliage in mid summer. 

 Place near dark blue or green hostas and watch it stand out. A fast, reliable grower. Plant in bright a.m.. sun for its best color.



Guacamole                        

MATURE SIZE: Large
Height: 24” Width up to 54”
Guacamole is one fast grower and will fill an area quickly. It forms large, dense clumps and thrives in partial shade where the sun can brighten the leaf centers. Its avocado green leaves are shiny with a dark green wide margin. The leaves are moderately folded. Fragrant white blooms appear in early summer making it perfect for planting near walkways, patios, decks or paths. Very sun tolerant. 2002 Hosta of the Year!



MATURE SIZE: Very Large
Height: 36” Width up to 72”

One of the largest hostas available today and one of the earliest hostas to emerge in the spring. It has broadly ovate leaves which form a huge mound of lime green leaves with a glossy texture. The leaves of Sum and Substance change to yellow when exposed to more sunlight. It has pale lavender blooms in mid summer. It's sun and heat tolerant. Deserved the distinction of Hosta of the Year in 2004.

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MATURE SIZE: Large
Height: 28” Width up to 70”
Sun Power forms clumps of upright vase-shaped arching brilliant gold leaves that are more intense when grown in the sun but it will also simply glow in shadier spots. It has pale lavender to white flowers in mid summer. Also drought tolerant. This hosta will holds its color until frost.


  

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Incorporate some bright-colored hostas into your shade garden today!

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Visit us at SunsetHostaFarm.com







Sun's Effect on Hosta Leaf Color


Hostas continue to be a favorite perennial plant for plenty of reasons. Their toughness, beauty, ease of care and variety of great sizes, leaf colors and shapes make it one of the best plants for a shade or semi-shade garden.

Contrary to what some people may think, though, no hosta will survive, much less thrive, in complete shade. All plants need some sunlight to photosynthesize.

 

Hostas


But just how much sun do hostas really need?


If you're not so concerned about the hosta's leaf color through the season, you can plant your hosta with morning sunshine and semi or dappled sun during the afternoon. All hostas will be nice and healthy in these conditions.

If you're looking for that exact picture-on-the-website color, though, it becomes a bit tricky and make take some trial and error. Learning about the sun's effect on hosta leaves can go a long way in achieving the right placement.








First, sun is not sun is not sun


The heat and brightness experienced in a full sun location can vary from area to area as well as the time of day. Full sun in the morning hours will not be as intense as full sun in the
afternoon. Sun in the south is, of course, more intense than sun in the north. There is also the consideration of micro climates. Things like fences, buildings and even other plants can shade an area through part of the day and that needs to be considered.


Some Generalities


The Shining Hosta


Fragrant Hostas


There are hostas with fragrant flowers.  These have evolved from H. Plantaginea.  The Shining, pictured above, can tolerate more sunny conditions.  In fact, fragrant hostas need four to six hours of sun to develop those beautiful fragrant white blooms.  And unlike most other hostas, the fragrant ones bloom in the late afternoon instead of in the early morning.  This species also has the ability to grow new foliage during the summer months.

Here at Sunset Hosta Farm, we offer six varieties of fragrant hostas.  They are:

Blue Hawaii - Coming soon!




Thick Leaves


Hostas with thicker substance to their leaves can take more sun as they can absorb and hold more moisture. Sum and Substance, Big Daddy and First Frost are great examples of this.  Conversely, hostas with thinner leaves are more susceptible to sun scald.


Leaf Color


Leaf color plays an important role in answering the question of how much sun a hosta needs for best color and health.




Halcyon blue hosta

Halcyon Hosta



Blue Hostas


For our full article on the effects of the sun on blue hosta leaf color, click here.  Here's some generalities.


Blue hostas require the most protection from the sun because the blue color is actually a waxy coating on the top and or bottom side of the leaves. The leaves are actually a shade of green, but the waxy coating makes them appear those great shades of blue. Too much sun can cause this waxy coating to melt off and expose the green leaf underneath. This is the reason it is recommended that blue hostas are planted in deeper shade than other hostas.

The best siting for blue hostas is some morning sun and complete afternoon shade. If your blue hosta is keeping its blue color through most of the season, it's obviously in the right spot. Keep in mind, though, that blue hosta cultivars differ greatly in their blue coloring and in how long they will hold their blue color into the season.





  
Minuteman Hosta

Minuteman Hosta



Dark Green Hostas


Dark green leafed hostas need less sunlight to thrive. This is because they have more chloroplasts in their leaves and photosynthesis can occur with less light. To keep that deep green color, plant it like you would a blue hosta. If you don't mind a lighter green color, you can give it more sun.


Guacamole hosta

Guacamole Hosta



Light Green Hostas


Light green hostas may require more light. In fact, you can somewhat control the color of the leaves by its placement. In more sun, the leaves will begin to turn even lighter.


Fire Island Hosta

Fire Island Hosta



Gold, Yellow or Chartreuse Hostas


Generally hostas that tolerate more sun have leaves with hues of white, gold or yellow. The leaves may be solid or variegated. These are the most sun tolerant of the hostas. They're able to handle more sun provided they're kept adequately moist. They need at least two hours of direct sun to look their best.

The yellow leaf colors will look brighter when given more sun. Without at least a couple of hours of sun, the yellow leaf color can fade to green or chartreuse, or yellow hostas that emerge green may stay green instead of turning yellow.



  
White Feather Hosta

White Feather Hosta



White Hostas


As a general rule, the more white a hosta is, the more sun it needs to maintain its vigor. Most solid white leafed hostas, like White Feather, emerge a ghostly white then the leaves become white with light green stripes as it matures. Again, the thicker the leaf, the more sun it can tolerate. Thin leaved white hostas should be restricted to partial shade or early morning sun and little or dappled afternoon shade.




White or Yellow Centered Variegated Hostas


These tend to burn in too much sun unless the hosta has thicker leaves. Morning or late afternoon sun is recommended for white and yellow variegated hostas with thinner leaves.


  
Loyalist Hosta

Loyalist Hosta


Variegated Hostas


Variegated hostas have minimal amounts of chlorophyll. In full sun, the chlorophyll levels can increase and cause the leaves to pick up a green cast and look less variegated. With insufficient sun, any yellow or white margins may not lighten to the mature color.



Other Things to Consider


It is normal to see color changes in the hosta leaves throughout the growing season as the sun grows more intense. These changes are temporary for the season.


The hotter the weather and the more intense the sun, the more water a hosta needs. Hostas expire a lot of moisture through their leaves. For a large swath of hostas, installing a drip irrigation system is a great idea.







Sun Tolerant Hostas


There are hostas that are “Sun Tolerant.” If your hosta is advertised as such, it is your best bet for placement in some sun. Here at Sunset Hosta Farm we offer many sun tolerant hostas. 


To read our blog post all about sun tolerant hostas, click here.



Signs of Sun Scald

  • Faded or bleached out green color on the leaves of blue hostas.
  • Browned leaf edges.
  • Dull color and faded spots on the leaves.


Wrapping Up


Because there are so many variables to consider, you could follow all of the above suggestions and still not be successful in achieving an exact leaf color.

One of the great things about hostas is that they're easy to dig up and move to another location. And there's always the possibility of planting your hosta in a pot. Then you can move it around until it's in just the right spot for the coloring you're after.



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Where to go next!











Flowering hosta in a pot


Love hostas or know someone who does?
Visit our website for great hostas at an affordable price!

Sunday, August 18, 2019

Cleaning Birdhouses, Feeders and Baths



One of my favorite parts of being out in the garden is listening to the sounds of nature, especially the chirping of birds. The last thing I want to do is make them sick by not giving my feathered visitors clean birdhouses, feeders and watering holes.






The four common diseases that are easily spread from one bird to another are Avian Pox, Salmonellosis, Trichomoniasis and Aspergillosis. Birds with these diseases are more likely to die from starvation, predation and severe weather. 


You can't count on the winter cold to kill off harmful bacteria. Proof of this is the fact that bird diseases peak in January and February according to the Wildlife Rehabilitation Center.
Follow these tips to keep your birdhouses, feeders and baths clean and disease free.



 


Birdhouses



Dirty birdhouses can spread disease to nesting birds and their hatchlings. Aside from the bacteria that builds up, leftovers from rodents or insects may be present. Make your birdhouse more attractive and safe for your feathery visitors with these cleaning tips.

  



When to Clean and Sanitize Birdhouses


  • Each time a new family moves out.

  • Before winter sets in, clean and set out so they're ready to invite early spring birds.
  • For most species, one cleaning after the end of the breeding season is sufficient.




How to Clean and Sanitize Birdhouses


  • Take apart where possible and sweep out thoroughly, including the old nesting material.
  • Inspect the birdhouse for loose nails or any poking objects to harm birds or your hands.
  • Wearing rubber gloves, scrub the birdhouse inside and old with a stiff brush and a toothbrush and a solution of 90% water and 10% bleach.
  • Thoroughly rinse until there is only a faint smell of bleach.
  • If a strong bleach smell persists, lightly scrub with soap and water and rinse thoroughly again.
  • Let dry in the sun for several hours to prevent growth of mildew and mold before rehanging.








Bird Feeders


When to Clean and Sanitize Bird Feeders



The three most important times to disinfect the bird feeders are the beginning of spring, the end of summer and the beginning of winter. If you have several feeders, you can create a rotation schedule so that one is cleaned, disinfected and dried every other week. If you have a garden calendar, add these items to your schedule as it is easy to forget during the busy garden season.









How to Clean and Sanitize Bird Feeders



  • Dispose of all seeds.
  • Take the feeder apart into as many pieces as possible.
  • Wearing rubber gloves, submerge the feeder parts into a solution of 10% bleach and 90% hot water.
  • Use a stiff brush to scrub both the inside and outside of the feeder, cleaning feeding ports, perches, lids, etc. An old toothbrush works well to get into the nooks and crannies.
  • Rinse thoroughly.
  • If a strong bleach smell persists, lightly scrub with soap and water and rinse thoroughly again.
  • Let dry in the sun for several hours to prevent growth of mildew and mold.Reassemble and hang for the next set of visitors.

If you can't get the feeder nice and clean, replace it. You can purchase feeders that are made of materials that are easier to clean, such as metal and plastic. Wooden bird feeders can be difficult to sanitize.


 

  



Other Tips


  • Clean up under feeding areas often so as not to attract unwanted rodents.
  • Move feeders periodically to reduce the accumulation of waste.
  • If you notice your birdhouse getting crowded with visitors, place another other next door or spread out the ones you have. Crowded birdhouses are a breeding ground for disease.
  • Purchase no-waste seed mixes that contain hulled seeds.
  • Purchase good quality birdhouses that are especially built for easy cleaning with slide-out or pull-out bottoms or hinges.
  • Store seed in a cool, dry place to keep fresh longer.
  • Supply only fresh food. Optimally only put out as much feed as you think the birds will eat in one or two days. Old seed, especially when wet, will promote the growth of bacteria.
  • Leave hanging during the winter for shelter of non-migratory birds.



   
  

Birdbaths



Cleaning and Sanitizing Birdbaths



We all know that stagnant water carry diseases that can spread quickly from one bird to the whole flock. Not only that, it's a great breeding ground for mosquitoes. Those stubborn stains in the birdbath are often caused by chemicals in the rain, tap water and organic debris.



How to Clean and Sanitize Birdbaths


  • Dump out the old water.
  • Unless your birdbath has delicate features, you can pressure rinse it to remove all the loose debris.
  • For a standard size birdbath, add a cup or so of bleach to the water and mix it in to kill any algae.
  • Cover the birdbath with plastic to keep the birds out of it while the solution does its job. Let the solution soak for a minimum of ten minutes to a half an hour, depending on the amount of stains.
  • Check the cleanliness after that time and continue to soak if the stains remain.
  • For the stubborn parts, scrub with a stiff brush.
  • Rinse thoroughly for 2-3 minutes with as much water pressure as your birdbath can safely take.
  • Take extra care to rinse the nooks and crannies.
  • You'll know when the birdbath is well rinsed if there is only a slight odor of the bleach.
  • Empty the solution and allow the birdbath to dry completely in the sun to sterilize the surface against bacteria.
  • Refill with fresh, clean water and watch the birds enjoy a drink or a bath.






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Following these tips you'll keep your feathered friends fed, happy and healthy!

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Where to go next!


    



Love hostas or know someone who does?
Visit our website for great hostas at an affordable price.


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